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How to change rear shoes?

Good answer with the water, I use a mild soap and rise with hot water, less chance of any residue, Brake cleaners can leave a slight residue that can be transfered to the brakes. Ive been teaching brake class for a long time and it is my rule number one, keep it clean. JMO
 
While Tuck's question was related to a metric 2 wheeler...drum brakes have been used in HD's in the distant past...and far be it from me to deny helping a fellow HD motorcyclist who "happens" to have more than one ride. Once he gets his commuter fixed...the serious fun begins when the weekend comes and he gets aboard his "Real Ride"...!:small3d007: Mental clarity rules! :D
 
I did not even realize until now Tucks said brake Shoes not pads. Sorry Tucks, I thought you had disc on the rear not drum...

Buddy, Your on your own with drum brakes!:p
 
STEVE07 said:
Drum brakes are easy,just a mechanical lever.pull the back wheel .Undo the retainer.(usually two flat jam nuts) slide the drum off that will expose the brake shoes after that just remove the two springs and two retainer clips,reverse the procedure for reinstallation.
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It is VERY well advised to wear safety glasses when you start to pull the retaining springs off brake shoes!Normally you have to pull them down and then lever them out.If they fly free,Mr Murphy says they'll hit your face.

Take care.
 
Meticulously note the spring orientation and whether the open end is inboard or outboard. If you can, take a ‘before’ picture. It always looks so different once apart. Used to do this on the car years ago then someone pointed out the springs were reversed. But it always stopped; in time. :D

biscuit said:
It is VERY well advised to wear safety glasses when you start to pull the retaining springs off brake shoes!Normally you have to pull them down and then lever them out.If they fly free,Mr Murphy says they'll hit your face.

Take care.
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Re. Mr. Murphy, that would be the law that states ‘An object will always land where it will do the most damage.’


Hoople said:
Maybe for you because you know what your doing. I would HAVE to have the Genuine Service Manual and an another identical bike next to it.!!
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If you can't take a picture before, take Hoople’s advise above.
 
If it was me, I'd google 'suzuki vl 125' and get the real info from other 'zuk' riders. Maybe even try and find a Suzuki forum. I'm sure the best info can be found there. Sorry if I come across as 'ruff', I'm not known for being politically correct.... Good luck with the .......
Slim
 
Disc on the rear of a motorcycle is fairly new concept for me so changing the shoes on the rear of motorcycle is something i wouldnt have much problem with but if never done them on a suzy but pull the rear wheel and the brake mechanism should just lift out as any adjustment is done by a thumb screw on the brake rod
are you sure you need to replace them or just adjust there is normally a pointer on the outside of the brake mechanism on the rear wheel that shows how much friction material is left once you apply the brake any adjustment is done with a thumb screw on the end of the brake rod

if you were near me id say bring it round the bike shed and id help you do it

Brian
 
PS...you pointed out the main concern with drum brakes...lots of parts that once loose (if not bouncing across the shop floor) was one of the "banes" of working on drum brakes. The other was drum brakes had less friction "swept area" and poorer cooling due to mass and size of heavy drum (out of necessity) relying on the "camming effect" to help the shoes wedge/engage more firmly to the drum. It gave rise to "power brake" booster technology to get enough pressure...sad without it, with fading and feeling like Fred Flintstone when trying to stop!!!
 
Just as a way of an update
Tucks was unable to bring his bike round to the bike shed but a couple of emails back and forth has him with new shoes in his bike

Brian
 
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