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i removed my crank case plug......

H D had everyone scared over this plug, if it was not meant to be removed the engineers would not have designed it that way, as long as one uses caution and thread sealer you will be fine, I have removed the plugs on TC 88 motors when they first came out
 
CAREFUL Out n IN....

That plug Needs to go in Not quite flush..... Like it came from the factory... Further in and You May Crack the threaded area as IT WILL DEAD END further in n causing a Bind that Might do permanent Damage... DON'T go in that depth... Just LOOK at the plug to start with........SEE it is probably out a Little or Just Flush... NOT "IN" unless removed before by a LESS Knowledgeable mechanic/self wrencher and Replaced Wrongly...........

I'd rather see you use a Sealer that allows FLUSH Fit with no leaks... On my 09 and many others, I have had that plug out an Never a problem putting it back as it seems to get Tight on its own IF NOT Rammed back in.... I Use FEEL.......... Then a seal IF it doesn't Feel Good...

signed....BUBBIE
 
BUBBIE said:
You may have to loosen the pipe covers (snake skins) a little, to get easy access to the Header Flange Bolt Nuts... Usually loosened they will move far enough to let the 1/2" long socket in easily.... CAREFUL of the FENDER when you get to the front pipe flange........ Tools will leave unwanted Chips and Scratch marks....... Turning the bars to open the BOTTOM of the fender, away from the Handle of the tool, you'll be safer from DINGS...

I had a loose set in the front (little noise too) and got about a 3/4+ turn on both....
Quiet Now..... SMILE

ALSO, Don't snap a stud... I spay the nuts with ? your choice lube (WD40) Before Tightening.... it helps in tightening the 1/2 nuts, not fighting DRY n DIRTY Threads...

signed....BUBBIE
Click to expand...


Awesome thanks for the advise! I'll give it a try. Not going to be easy with these klock werk headers!
 
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try this for the threads
 
BUBBIE said:
You may have to loosen the pipe covers (snake skins) a little, to get easy access to the Header Flange Bolt Nuts... Usually loosened they will move far enough to let the 1/2" long socket in easily.... CAREFUL of the FENDER when you get to the front pipe flange........ Tools will leave unwanted Chips and Scratch marks....... Turning the bars to open the BOTTOM of the fender, away from the Handle of the tool, you'll be safer from DINGS...

I had a loose set in the front (little noise too) and got about a 3/4+ turn on both....
Quiet Now..... SMILE

ALSO, Don't snap a stud... I spay the nuts with ? your choice lube (WD40) Before Tightening.... it helps in tightening the 1/2 nuts, not fighting DRY n DIRTY Threads...

signed....BUBBIE
Click to expand...


Thanks for the tip BUBBIE. Got home from work tonight grabbed an ice cold beverage and a 1/2 in socket squirted a little air can lube on the flange nuts and man was I surprised! I the front bolt on the rear header was crazy loose. So I tightened her down checked the other ones not very loose at all. Fired her up and no noise no squeak just the sweet sound of an American v-twin motor. Couldn't get to the back bolt on that pipe. I think they had to take the entire bike apart to fit that pipe on lol. But she sounds good I think I achieved my desired results and I got the answers I was looking for. Thanks for the advise!
 
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