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Lifter bleed down

Can only be a couple things causing compression loss, besides that, if you don't know what the compression was exactly before you started it really does not matter, maybe nothing changed, my opinion, if you are within specs, ride it and when it breaks, if it ever does, worry about it then.
 
Drumrguy said:
my opinion, if you are within specs, ride it and when it breaks, if it ever does, worry about it then.
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I really believe that is actually the better way to be. You will enjoy life and live longer... guaranteed. When I ride, I sometimes think about all the parts that are moving around inside my engine and wonder how it all can Really work as well as it does. That's probably why I have no friends!:p
 
Hoople said:
But this is just me.......

Even when finished, if the front cylinder measured 148 PSI and the rear cylinder measured 165 I could not sleep at night. I would have to know why.
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I never had an HD that i owned and worked on having a difference more than 2 lbs. difference. I am FUSSY and LUCKY i guess...

MY MANY rebuilds have proven the 2 lbs. and I also would feel UN-comfortable with MORE than that...

I have pulled down one of my bikes motors with 7 lbs difference in cyl's pressures and found a problem with cyl. scoring from metal shavings off the crank going bad......

I FEEL SORRY THAT ALL THIS CAME about FROM ME FEELING SORRY FOR Ricksterzz.... I see his green light off and BOY does he have reading when he gets back on......SORRY...

4 advil and a shot of something... not me but for Ricksterzz

I'm going into hiding for a while YOU"ALL BYE BYE

signed....BUBBIE
 
If the engine was rotated a little, or the front jug was pushed down, I bet the pistons would top off the same, the jugs can't change height anymore then none adj. push rods can. If the black rods are in the ex. and silver are in intake & they turn, I say fire that puppy up and lets party. I do always turn the motor over with the spark plugs out using the elct. start to pump up oil pressure before firing up, if somethings not right it shows up then, but it does throw a no combust code that's it's easy to clear.
 
Back in after installing wheel after a new tire was put on. I bought the bike used it had a 95 kit installed by the previous owner by a dealership in Iowa. He put about 6,000 miles since the build and I've put on about 4,000. The bike ran great even faster than my RKC that also has a 95 kit. The front cylinder had 3/16 inch of carbon down from the top of the cylinder and the rear cylinder was clean all the way as the piston went all the way to the top. The top of both pistons looked the same with a nice even layer of carbon on top that I have since cleaned off. The front cylinder and piston both looked real good also ( no streaking or marring). Only a little more carbon on the front exhaust valve. I only took the head off the rear cylinder. Rocker boxes are on and waiting for my tins to come back. I will do a compression test tomorrow. Thanks.
 
Update...I got the tins back and put it back together. It fired right up and roared like a lion. I was a little worried for awhile as it made a rattling noise for about 5 minutes, then it went away and idled nice, reved without missing, no leaks. Thanks again for all your guys help. I will attach a couple of pics of the beast and my fleet of Harley's.

My buddy Duggr was a great help.:bigsmiley11:

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