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Limp Mode?

Yea, still have not running rite. I have not had much time to work on it but most things point to MAP sensor or loose/corroded wire or connector. I am going to check the wireing first. The thing is it runs great until it warms up than back to one cylender so I feel like it is un likely a loose or worn wire. What do you think?

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I think you are rite, I checked owners manual and service manual and there is no mention of limp mode.
 
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vtwinrider said:
What do you think?
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Since you have 4 stacked unrelated codes, I would troubleshoot it by 1st writing down the codes. Clear out the codes from memory because at this point you don't know what the time stamp was on any of them. Take the bike for a ride and keep your eye on the check lite for a DTC capture. You may hit on 1 quickly. Stop the bike and see what the code is. Focus on that code. Continue to ride to see if other codes stack as before.

From the sound of it, you should hit on a code quickly.
 
That sounds reasonable, unfortunatly I will have to wait until the weekend. I will keep in touch. Thanks for everything! What a great forum!
 
This is a cut and paste from the HD Forum:

I know from doing some searching here that there have been numerous instances of 2008 bikes having problems with the "limp home mode". I just wanted to let you guys with 2010 bikes know that the problem hasn't been solved yet. My 2010 FLHR has just turned 25,000 miles but is still under the warranty - thank goodness.

I started experiencing this problem a little over a month ago. Like others, the engine light would come on and I'd lose all throttle control. I've had the twist grip sensor replaced and that didn't fix the problem. Now, after a week in the shop, my dealer is telling me what I told them awhile ago -- it's the pins on the ECM. My service guy told me today they had ordered the parts and the MOCO is replacing the existing pins with silver pins.

Just wanted to give some of you guys with 2010's with fewer miles a heads-up so you can have this checked out before your warranty expires. I'd hate to imagine the dent this would've put in my wallet if I'd encountered this problem later this year.
 
bobalu said:
Only bikes with the Engine Idle Temperature Management System (EITMS) will do this. I don't know what year HD introduced this (2009?). My 2010 RKC has it. There are a series of programmed "conditions" that have to be met before this will engage (speed, throttle position, engine temperature, engine speed).

Limp Mode is part of the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) system introduced to the Touring line I think in 2009(?). Commonly referred to as "fly by wire". An Electronic Control Module (ECM) controls the fuel injection/TB from the wireless throttle. If the system malfunctions, there are a series of backups, of which the limp mode (max 25mph) is one.
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From what my dealer is telling me "parade mode" was added on in 2009. But was programmed into some 2008 models as well. My street glide does it and also my buddies 08 road king. If I sit in traffic for a long long time it will do this but as soon as I twist the throttle it's right back to 2 cylinders. Kind of like how abs wasn't standard until 09' but my 08' SG has it.
 
Streetglider08 said:
From what my dealer is telling me "parade mode" was added on in 2009.
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From what I have read, heat management firmware started with the "96" engine regardless of the frame it was mounted on. All the stage 1 map downloads from HD themselves reflect that to be the case.
 
Thanks for all of the help, Latest update: Everything is back together, but
unfortunately nothing has changed except now that I have cleared the codes, there are none, but it still runs on one cylinder. It runs perfectly when it is cold but as it warms up, it starts sputtering and the frond cylinder starts cutting out, and there are no error codes! Any suggestions?
 
What do you think of swapping the front injector for the rear one to seeing if it is the injector. I have wiggled and inspected every wire and connection. Do you think it could be the ignition coil? I checked the plug wires and they showed 7.7 and 7.5 ohms at 20K. Im not sure what that means but I was told that was ok.
 
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