Looking for opinions for cam upgrade in Ultra Classic

[texas tom]

I had the 103 stage 2 kit with 255 cams put in my bike(07 egc) and love it.I had manual compression releases installed also but if all your doing is cams you should not need them as the stage 2 kit comes with flat top pistons and a little more compression.

 

[mjb582003]

I looked at the 103 stage 2 kit also. I didnt need the A/C or the slip-ons it came with, so those would be extra parts. I was able to get the 255 cams, install kit and the push rods for $460, about half of what the 103 kit was, so I went with that. I'm doing the install myself, so no labor costs.

 

[BUBBIE]

I have also been considering swapping SE255 cams into my 08 Electraglide.

Went in today and priced out the cams, installation kit, adjustable pushrods etc. and it adds up pretty quick.

After some consideration, I think I will simply go for the Stage 2 kit as it includes the cams, 103" barrels and pistons, air intake kit and all gaskets. Stage 2 kits retail for under a grand which is only a few hundred dollars more than quote I was given for just the cams and related parts. Stage 2 appears to give the best bang for the buck.

Will still have to go with some sort of tuner but am leaning toward Screamin Eagle or TTS.

**********************************************
I have learned from the MANY about this Build.

Many- many comments from the BUILDERS of these TC Motors and Heads:

When going 103" and using the SE255's,, MOST Suggest to Install the relief valves into the heads while apart..

The 96" bikes don't develop the "Too Much" compression with the SE255 cams like the increased 103" size.

THIS being the bonus in using them in the 96", giving More Power AND coming on Early at the lower RPM's...
because going 103" and 255's WILL increase Beyond the safe compression limits for streetable bikes 10.1/10.2/ after going 103".and static compression might be OVER the suggested Under 190 lbs MAX cc pressures,developed in the 103", Hitting too high for a good road ride..(201/205 ccp).... NOW there is the "Hard starting Issue" and Kick Backs.

HIGH octane gas is needed Especially with this added ccp developed. Using comp. reliefs Allows easier starting on the hot engine ,,, saving starters and battery.

Also suggested for the streetable ride bikes IS to CC the head chambers out (More) a Little to -drop the compression pressure Just A Bit.. IF you stay with the early Close of intake at 25* on the SE 255's and go 103".

I plan to offset this higher compression by using the -4* gear changing timing to 29* close..... when I go 103".

103" will develp Just a little more compression then needed and WILL bock after Fueling at the gas stop when the motor is still HOT.
Not Always Kick-backs on every bike, but enough times to warrent the valves...
Many riders reported this(with out c. r. valves) as a Problem,,,,

ME, I like compression but This Time Around on my FLHR,, I will NOTE and HEED the Limits Needed to run as a GOOD streetable bike...

I don't know if the KIT you speak of comes with the Compression relief valves but Strongly suggest you install..

signed....BUBBIE

 

[R.Bingham]

A great cam for touring bikes 06 and up is the Andrews 48 (H for 07up,N for 06). It is similar to the SE 255 except it has an intake close of 29* instead of the 25* of the 255. It loses nothing down low to the 255 and actually gains quite a bit farther out. While the 255 has a lot of torque down low it has rather short "legs". The Andrews 48 has longer "legs".
Bubbie is talking about using a -4* gear on the 255. By doing this he will have essentially the same cam as the Andrews 48.

Randall

 

[flh canuck]

Thanks for the info Bubbie.

I wasn't aware that people were having problems with kick back etc. but not really suprised as it happens once in a while even with my stock 96".

If I do go with the 103" kit, I will have manual compression releases installed as it doesn't cost a whole lot to get then installed if the heads are off.

I put a lot of miles on in the warmer months and last thing I want is any decrease in reliability or issues with hot starting (especially when one is a long way from home...).

I guess there are always trade-offs but good to know before hand so I can make an informed decision and do the build right the first time.

 

[eleft36]

**********************************************
I have learned from the MANY about this Build.

Many- many comments from the BUILDERS of these TC Motors and Heads:

When going 103" and using the SE255's,, MOST Suggest to Install the relief valves into the heads while apart..

The 96" bikes don't develop the "Too Much" compression with the SE255 cams like the increased 103" size.

ME, I like compression but This Time Around on my FLHR,, I will NOTE and HEED the Limits Needed to run as a GOOD streetable bike...


signed....BUBBIE

It's less hassle to change the cam to an Andrews TW26H (35*ABDC) when going to a 103", It brings the ccp close to stock.

Just buy the SE BB Cylinder Kit, SE Flat top cast piston kit and the SE .045 recommended head gasket.

It's OK with stock push rods.

Runs good with stock mufflers and stock air cleaner too.

Skip the stage what ever kits and the extra expense of having machine work done.

Sell the SE255's

Al

:USA
:CONNECTICUT

PS
If you want to stay with SE cams, the SE204

Al

:USA
:CONNECTICUT

 

[chevy1]

I have several friends that made this change. I installed S&S 510 gear driven cams in my 2001 RK. I have a tour pac and ride loaded down with gear a lot of the time. My bike is a stock 88" with SE touring pipes and a A.N. big sucker aircleaner set up and a PCIII USB box. My bike was dyno tuned at 78.5 HP and 80 fp of torq (flat across), It pulls well below 2.5K ( no differance ) but it comes alive above 2.5 RPM and that really where it runs 90% the time. If I run 70 mph I get 40MPG, at 55-60 mph I can get 43mpg. This summer I plan to add the same cams to my wifes 2003 Dyna. Good luck