Lost all power at 65mph

[roadking01]

I had the same thing happen to me a few times on my 01 Road King, I took the ignition switch apart cleaned all the contacts made sure nothing was loose or broken, greased all the parts put it all back together and have not had the problem since, that was about 1-1/2 years ago.

 

[Hoople]

I replaced the 40 amp main circuit breaker lastnight and rode to work today. No problems on the way there but coming home It did it again. Everything goes dead for 30 seconds or so then all power comes back on? Any other ideas?

You never said what happens AFTER the 1st 30 second reset. Does the bike now make it home after the reset? Or does the power go out ONCE AGAIN after ANOTHER short period of time.

Was the original circuit breaker 40 amp or was it less than the NEW 40 amp you installed. I will assume there is more than 1 breaker in the bike. Are you sure the breaker you replaced is the MAIN breaker.

In entry point #1 you said the electrical reset in 10 seconds. Then in entry point #9 you said the the electrical reset after 30 seconds. That is a BIG difference and is very important when trying to diagnose a problem such as yours. Was there really a 3 to 1 ratio in time between the old breaker and the New breaker.

When the bike goes dead, do you recycle the ignition key or are you just waiting out the reset time period. Does the electrical come back to life WITHOUT recycling the key or ignition switch?

Give us something to work with. It would be great if solutions just fell from the sky but they don't. Help us.

 

[KingoftheRoad]

The first time it happened it was only approx 10 seconds or so and it reset itself without cycling the ignition and i rode approx 10 miles to home without it happening again. The main breaker that was in it was a 12 volt 50 amp breaker I then bought a 12 volt 40 amp breaker as they didn't have a 50 amp at the parts store. Today coming home from work the outside temp was in the upper 90's and I was within 5 miles from home when it went dead again. This time it was dead for approx 30 seconds or so then without cycling the ignition it all come back on to last about a mile before doing it again for 30 seconds or so before coming back on and then making it the next 2 miles or so home. Thanks. Hope this is more clear.

 

[Jaguar F822]

I had the same problem about three weeks ago, while coming back from work in 95° weather. Suddenly lost all power and had to coast to the side of the road.

No lights, no gauges, no nothing electrical! After 20 secs. or so the gauges came back to life, she started right back up, and was able to do another mile and a half when it happened all over again.

This time when the juice came back the clock was blinking 12:00 like I had disconnected the leads from the battery.

Rather awful experience but a cheap fix. I read on this, as well as other forums to replace the main circuit breaker with an inline fuse. My parts totaled $ 35 and I now have a 40 amp glass inline fuse, and no more problems.

There was a recall for this issue but according to the dealer it was already done on my bike. Apparently it didn't help much.

I was going to put a link to the the other topic and the recall, as well as a picture of my fix, but as a newb I am not allowed to do so, sorry.

Good Luck

Pim

 

[Hoople]

The main breaker that was in it was a 12 volt 50 amp breaker I then bought a 12 volt 40 amp breaker as they didn't have a 50 amp at the parts store.

Standing still with the bike running at about 1500 RPM,, with as many lights and accessories ON as possible, does the NEW circuit breaker start to get warm. Pay close attention to the POSTS & WIRE RING TERMINALS of the circuit breaker. I don't care about the body of the CB.

***Do the posts and Ring terminals start to get warm. ESPECIALLY at the crimp area of the RING TERMINALS where the wire in inserted.***

 

[Hoople]

I now have a 40 amp glass inline fuse, and no more problems.

Now your on target. That is what I was suggesting earlier, only using a Maxi Fuse. If CB's were the best device for the application, HD would probably still be using them.

 

[Jaguar F822]

That is what I was suggesting earlier, only using a Maxi Fuse.

True; I was told to switch to a 40 amp Maxi fuse. I went to three different car-parts stores, and none of them stocked anything higher than a 30 amp....

A local mall around here has a store that builds in all kinds of mega car stereo's and they had the inline glass fuse. I figured if it works in a car it probably works on my bike.

As I wanted to get back on the road I went with it. Once I locate a 40 amp Maxi Fuse, I might still switch to that, but so far I am a happy camper!

 

[Hoople]

A local mall around here has a store that builds in all kinds of mega car stereo's and they had the inline glass fuse.

You should be able to find Maxi Fuses on the internet or at Napa. I believe "Maxi Fuse" is a copyrighted name by Bussmann. If you do use a car stereo product, stay away from "Stinger" brand. Their multi-strand wires are OK but their high current battery terminals, fuse-holders and fuses are pure junk. Especially their fuse holders. I got into it with a Stinger Rep at a SEMA car show once. Really funny. He had no clue what I was even talking about.

The names you want to find are Belden or Bussmann.

 

[KingoftheRoad]

I'm going to Napa tomorrow after work and hopefully pick up a 40 amp Maxi Fuse and fuse holder. What gauge wire should I use for the fuse holder and how should I terminate the ends of the fuse holder to the other wires?
Thanks

 

[Hoople]

You just may wind up blowing a handful of Maxi fuses.
I would feel the CB to get a "read" on what is going on first. Your electrical system just MAY be drawing a ton of current and the CB is doing what it is suppose to be doing.

You did not answer the previous question of are you absolutely SURE the CB you are changing is the main CB. I asked you to feel the CB for heat because that would have answered the question for me without having to ask you a 2nd time. There are sometimes underlying reasons for the questions I ask.

The correct way to diagnose this problem would be to measure how much current was actually going through the wire, but I am guessing you don't have the needed tools to do that. A fuse or breaker should never be continuously ran near it's trigger point. Therefore a 40 amp fuse should not be continuously pumped with more than 35 amps or your going to have problems no matter what type of protection device you install.

Wasn't there a HD service bulletin for the current rating of that CB. I would not recklessly just increase it without reason BUT HD may have determined it should be increased.

I also never asked if you increased the current demand on the electrical system. (stereo amp or extra lights)