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Metal in oil

dolt said:
JMHO but I would go to the Blackstone website and request one of their collection kits, which they provide at no cost, catch a sample of oil and send it back for testing.

You won't want to hear what comes next and may choose to ignore but the only way you remove all the metal is to pull the motor and oil tank; anywhere that oil remains in the motor, i.e., lines, passages, piston jets, lifter galley, etc., etc., metal remains as well. The motor needs to be completely disassembled, cases split to insure all the metal has been removed. This will also allow a thorough inspection of the crank, wheels and bearings as well as the balancer assembly. If metal is traveling in the oil, the crank bearings have probably already seen some damage.:(

You will hear that you can flush the motor with diesel fuel and feel free to try that but be advised that if any metal is left floating around in the motor, you will very likely be tearing it down a second time and tearing it down all the way. It's a crap shoot; your ride and you decide but you pays yo money and you takes yo chances!:D
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Dolt is right on here, no amount of flushing would do much good at this point IMO. The trash in my engine appeared to sand blast the pistons, the piston jets were plugged up, The oil passages from the tank thru the cases would be the hardest to clean, the manual is very specific on these passages, best of luck and keep us informed
 
Thanks for the heads up. Brutaaaaal. I've been thinking the same thing with the teardown. The best luck I've had with rebuilds was to take them down to the cranks. 3.0 Mitsubishis and jeep HO 4.0's. the jeeps are rolling on 500k miles now.

I REALLY don't want to buy the Harley specific tools though. That kind of eats the savings of DIY.

I've been looking at the factory rebuilds the last few days. Will they still rebuild it if the engine is chewed up from metal? After the tensioner check, Maybe I should try to flush it and run it for a few hundred miles to see if it's still sound? If it works I'm good, if it dumps I send it in?

Just throwing things out there.

Thanks
 
alex911 said:
Thanks for the heads up. Brutaaaaal. I've been thinking the same thing with the teardown. The best luck I've had with rebuilds was to take them down to the cranks. 3.0 Mitsubishis and jeep HO 4.0's. the jeeps are rolling on 500k miles now.

I REALLY don't want to buy the Harley specific tools though. That kind of eats the savings of DIY.

I've been looking at the factory rebuilds the last few days. Will they still rebuild it if the engine is chewed up from metal? After the tensioner check, Maybe I should try to flush it and run it for a few hundred miles to see if it's still sound? If it works I'm good, if it dumps I send it in?

Just throwing things out there.

Thanks
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If you are talking about the H D reman program, the dealer has to pull the engine crate it and ship it
 
I could be wrong but I seem to remember that the dealer has to install the reman. motor. And Alex to answer your question it does not matter what shape the motor is in. You might call the dealer to find out about the removal of the motor.
 
alex911 said:
Thanks for the heads up. Brutaaaaal. I've been thinking the same thing with the teardown. The best luck I've had with rebuilds was to take them down to the cranks. 3.0 Mitsubishis and jeep HO 4.0's. the jeeps are rolling on 500k miles now.

I REALLY don't want to buy the Harley specific tools though. That kind of eats the savings of DIY.

I've been looking at the factory rebuilds the last few days. Will they still rebuild it if the engine is chewed up from metal? After the tensioner check, Maybe I should try to flush it and run it for a few hundred miles to see if it's still sound? If it works I'm good, if it dumps I send it in?

Just throwing things out there.

Thanks
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That is a good way to go.

The motor might last long time and IF and When you go re-man, you can go 95" with all the new components like cam plate,oil pump, hydraulicc chain tensioners like in the newer 07 up bikes.

The 95" is an option and I would go it for the few $$$ it cost. YES, the re-man Has to be done at an HD dealer shop.

Out and IN for the re-man AND warranty. I would go this route as the motor MIGHT be toasted with all that metal running thru it.

I do like your idea of running it for a while and see...

I would:D

signed....BUBBIE
 
If you ain't living on the edge, you're taking up room - Hunter S. Thompson (prob not).

Thanks Bubbie and all, I think I'll try running it for a while after I check the tensioner. I'll ask the local dealer about the program. Well "local" means Stone Mountain Harley which is 5 dealerships removed. They treated me right when the nearer dealerships turned out to be scoundrels with my first Harley 12 years ago.

The 95" upgrade and year warranty is what swayed me to the factory rebuild. with the outlay in tools it wont be much different.

Thanks again, I'll get back next week with results. Still waiting on a manual.
 
alex911 said:
Maybe I should try to flush it and run it for a few hundred miles to see if it's still sound? If it works I'm good, if it dumps I send it in?
Thanks
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The only issue I would have with "flush and run" is that you don't know where the metal is coming from and flush all you want, you won't remove all the metal from the motor. Metal traveling in the oil will find it's way into the oil pump and crank bearings and the motor could "dump" at the wrong time and/or in the wrong place. JMHO but if you are leaning reman, which is a good way to go, might be best to do it now and not have to worry about when and where she decides to "dump". But, my days of "living on the edge" are way behind me.:D
 
dolt said:
The only issue I would have with "flush and run" is that you don't know where the metal is coming from and flush all you want, you won't remove all the metal from the motor. Metal traveling in the oil will find it's way into the oil pump and crank bearings and the motor could "dump" at the wrong time and/or in the wrong place. JMHO but if you are leaning reman, which is a good way to go, might be best to do it now and not have to worry about when and where she decides to "dump". But, my days of "living on the edge" are way behind me.:D
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I would bet the piston jets are already plugged up, that, is a pretty small orifice. The reman program will update the inside of your engine to the most current parts HD has, even if the cases were bad the program would cover that plus 12 months unlimited mileage warranty. My engine was sOOOOOO bad it cracked the oil pump tho it still ran in fact I rode it to the dealer:s Engine Remanufacturing Options and Pricing | Harley-Davidson USA here is a link with prices
 
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I had a similar problem on my 2002 Ultra. The motor was a 95 inch motor with a hydraulic cam conversion done about 14000 miles earlier. No knocking, ever and, the engine ran like a scalded ape. I just didn't trust the engine after finging all the metal so it got a full inspection as I tore it down. The crank run out was 0, nada, zilch, so the engine got removed a full tear down was done. Bottom line was the crank ended up being the problem with mine. The bike now has a 103" build with a crank set from Darkhorse in it.
 
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