need advice for Top End maintenance

[fabrozor]

I started motor opening.

A question came as i removed the rocker arm plate.

How do you torque (with the right value of torque) the rear rocker arm plate bolts ??? (as there is no place to put the torque wrench.)

 

[Chopper]

This is out of the manual, I bought mine from snap-on, but most tool suppliers would sell the same thing but cheaper.

If the engine was left in the chassis for service, final tighten
the rocker arm support plate bolt on the rear left side of the
rear cylinder using a 3/8 inch drive torque wrench with a 1/2
inch flank drive “dog bone” torque adapter (Snap-On
FRDH161). Since any extension can act as a torque multiplier,
the torque wrench must be perpendicular to the torque
adapter when the bolt is tightened. The 90 degree orientation
between the tools cancels the multiplier effect and prevents
the bolt from being over-tightened. If the adapter is kept inline
with the torque wrench, the multiplier effect is in force and
distortion of the rocker housing will occur

 

[fabrozor]

thank you

About the piston rings. When i removed the cylinders, i noticed the rings apertures where verticaly aligned and not cross placed.
I know it's good to place the rings the same way you find it when you opened, but is it not better to cross place the rings apertures around the piston ?
How should i place the rings when i'll reinstall the cylinders ?

 

[fin_676]

In all the years ive been rebuilding engines some pistons have locating pins for the correct ring alignment but if not i would space out the gaps so that they are 1/3rd of the circumference from each other this assists in the prevention of pressure build up in the crankcase
but perhaps your service manual will be able to provide more detailed info on your engines specific setup

Brian

 

[fabrozor]

I guess i didn't explain my question well enough, forgive my language weakness.

My service manual recommands the following placement:

But when i removed the cylinder after 45000 miles, the rings where not placed as on the picture, but were verticaly aligned. I guess this alignement lead to sculpt the cylinder in a certain shape (not a perfect circle) and that's the reason why i can admit it could be necessary to replace the rings in the same verticaly position to fit the cylinder shape.

So here is my dilema between the recommanded position and the actual herited situation.

 

[fin_676]

I think in this situation then yes line up as you took them out but it will have to be exact placement
or you may need to rebore the cylinders to the next oversize and fit rings correctly
perhaps the heavy carbonation of the cylinder head was partially due to bad ring alignment allowing some oil under pressure to bypass the rings and burn along with the fuel
so resetting as before strip down may result in the same problems
these are only a few thoughts running through my head as i start to understand your problems
hope ive helped in some way

Brian

 

[fabrozor]

maybe the alignement had a part, but it was mainly a Valve Seal Stem problem.

 

[fabrozor]

This is out of the manual, I bought mine from snap-on, but most tool suppliers would sell the same thing but cheaper.

If the engine was left in the chassis for service, final tighten
the rocker arm support plate bolt on the rear left side of the
rear cylinder using a 3/8 inch drive torque wrench with a 1/2
inch flank drive “dog bone” torque adapter (Snap-On
FRDH161). Since any extension can act as a torque multiplier,
the torque wrench must be perpendicular to the torque
adapter when the bolt is tightened. The 90 degree orientation
between the tools cancels the multiplier effect and prevents
the bolt from being over-tightened. If the adapter is kept inline
with the torque wrench, the multiplier effect is in force and
distortion of the rocker housing will occur

Thanx for the idea, here is my hi-tech torque adapter :s

 

[fabrozor]

question :

In the herko kit, there is that joint shown on the photo.
Where shall that joint go ??? (stay polite please ;o)P
Thanks