Breeze's comment is a very good point given the data presented so far on your bike.
Without professional frame equipment it can be difficult to check a frame. Just putting an inclinometer on the back bone can fluctuate depending on assembly welds, cutting etc. The real important items are front and rear axle and steering stem, tree parallelness. This ignores the vertical realm of same said but that is a bit more difficult to measure. Usually any real problems in the vertical can be shown by placing inclinometer on the front and rear rotors (after the vertical alignment has been done).
In any case the NonVertical alignments spoke of are important in showing frame damage and I've seen it checked this way in the past. You need to set your rear alignment first and have it correct with the alignment holes and/or swing arm axle.
Then you need a front wheel chock to hold the bike "near" upright (doesn't have to be exactly straigh up). Then you need an 8ft straight edge of tight string line to straighten the front tire exacly inline with the rear tire. Some folks use 8ft flourescent bulbs. You will have to measure to get the front tire straight since they are not the same widths or in some cases not centered on the same line as the rear tire. So the means you need a chock that can be bumped and adusted (moved) around on the concrete floor.
After you get all that done. Hang a string bob (a pointed weighted device that hangs on a string) down the center of the ends of both the front and rear axles. You will have to do each end one at a time. Wait until the bob stops swaying and then put pencil mark on the floor for each end of the axles.
Then put a straight edge across the fork tubes RIGHT BELOW THE bottom tree. At any point along the straight edge on either side of the front end drop the string bob and wait for it to stabliize. Then have a helper put a mark on the floor for each side.
Now draw lines from one respective mark to the other. I.e. a line through one front axle end mark to the other front end axle end mark. Then a line from the fork tube/tree marks and then a third line thru the rear axle marks.
Now get a large framing square and slide a straight edge next to it, and draw a line perpendicular with (and at the center of) the rear axle line, all the way far enough to go across the tube/tree and front axle lines.
If you don't have a framing square you can measure from the center point on out 4ft along the rear axle line. Then go back to the center start point and measure a short arc 3ft towards the the front axle line. Then go the 4ft measurement on the rear axle line and measure 5ft over to the drawn arc. Where ever the 5ft crosses the arc is where you will draw your perpendicular line down the center. Please excuse the grade school geometry just trying to be complete in case you don't have a framing square. This is what is referred to in construction layout as the 3-4-5 triangle and we use it to get walls square when laying out.
They should all be perpendicular (90 degrees) to the crossing line. It might be hard to read the angle clearly on a protractor so measure equal distances out from this center crossing line (at least 1.5 feet), on each side at all 3 (axles and tube/tree) lines.
Now at these distant marks measure the distance from same lines. They should match fairly close. I.e. the distance from the front axle to the tube/tree line should be near the same on both sides. I doubt they will match exactly but should be fairly close.
If your rear alignment is correct AND you have measured your front tire inline with the rear and moved the chock to hold this, then the numbers returned from will show any problems with the frame, tubes or whatever.
) for the year. I totalled just over 2500 miles since May when I bought her. Not bad for a beginner!
