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No Lights! Help please!

Thanks to all for the replies, tomorrow hopefully I will start testing again, I didnt have time today.
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IF you send Hoople a PM to him, he'll help you out. Copy a link to the form page we are on Now, send a PM to him,,,, NOT to his visitors page and he will answer.:s

Link: No Lights! Help please! - Page 2 - Harley Davidson Community

I thing the wire going from the switch may be loose or off,OR the wire from the electrical braker ???? to the lights.

signed....BUBBIE
 
I don't have complete 2010 Dyna schematics but I can try & help if I can understand the problem. You said "....my lights stopped working except for the signals and break light".

You have no front amber parking/running lights,,, no back lights for speedo or tach,,,,,No headlight, both low and hi beam,,,, No fuel tank gauge back light,,,No running tail lights,
You only have a rear brake light and the turn signals work both front and rear. Bike also starts and runs fine.
Do the small indicator lamps (oil pressure,, neutral position,, hi beam indicator) work.

It's a 2010 Dyna SuperGlide. What is model code FXDI, FXD, FXDC... Does it happen to have the factory anti-theft tracking module (BRA) feature. Does it have the HD tail light convertor module that gives you rear parking lights from the factory directional only. Does it have a factory hands free fob (HFSM). Any non factory lighting mods on the bike.
 
I don't have complete 2010 Dyna schematics but I can try & help if I can understand the problem. You said "....my lights stopped working except for the signals and break light".

You have no front amber parking/running lights,,, no back lights for speedo or tach,,,,,No headlight, both low and hi beam,,,, No fuel tank gauge back light,,,No running tail lights,
You only have a rear brake light and the turn signals work both front and rear. Bike also starts and runs fine.
Do the small indicator lamps (oil pressure,, neutral position,, hi beam indicator) work.

It's a 2010 Dyna SuperGlide. What is model code FXDI, FXD, FXDC... Does it happen to have the factory anti-theft tracking module (BRA) feature. Does it have the HD tail light convertor module that gives you rear parking lights from the factory directional only. Does it have a factory hands free fob (HFSM). Any non factory lighting mods on the bike.

Hi Hoople you are the guy I was waiting for.
It is an FXD 2010. No (BRA),no (HFSM) but it has the flashing module for the break lights.It does has an HD LED headlight. No front amber parking/running lights, back light for speedo it is working, headlight hi/low bean not working,no tail light. The brake light and the turn signals work both front and rear. Bike also starts and runs fine. Not sure about the small indicators lights and fuel gauge but I will check after work.So far I tested for current on the wires that goes to the headlight and runing light after the ignition switch and theres no current.

Thanks for stepping in.

Eliot
 
No front amber parking/running lights,
and the turn signals work both front and rear.

Based on above, diagnose why both front running lights are not working. Lets assume both front amber running bulb filaments are good. Look at top left corner of #1 schematic. You said the front turn signals work, so the black(ground) & brown (feed) and the other black(ground) & violet(feed) wires are probably OK. That leaves us with both blue wires (31RB position 3 and 31LB position 3). Both of your front amber running lights don't work and that is the blue wire from each light.

Now look at top right corner of Base #2 schematic and locate connector 31LA and 31RA. The blue wire from each front amber parking/running lights are feed directly from the "lights" fuse. For the moment lets assume connector 31LA and 31RA are making good contact and both front running bulbs are not burned out.

Are you sure the fuse called "lights" is good. There is a meter probe test point built into the fuse. With ignition key ON, check for voltage on each side of the "lights" fuse. Don't remove fuse or check with ohm meter. Leave fuse installed, ignition ON and use volt meter. Do you read voltage on each side of fuse in test hole.
 

Attachments

  • Schematic #1.pdf
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  • Schematic #2.pdf
    3.1 MB · Views: 7
Hoople I do not know what happened but while I was testing the fuses the lights came to life. Now it let me wondering what was the problem, I guess I will have to wait till it happen again to find out. I'm going to apply some electrical grease on the fuses contacts.
I really appreciate your help and everybody else help on this matter.
 
.....on the fuses contacts.

It's probably the female fuse holder contacts not being tight. You can cut a fuse in half and slowly insert the single blade into each side of the fuse holder in order to check the tension. Sometimes the gripping power or spring tension will decrease over time just from the contacts getting warm from current flow.
 
It's probably the female fuse holder contacts not being tight. You can cut a fuse in half and slowly insert the single blade into each side of the fuse holder in order to check the tension. Sometimes the gripping power or spring tension will decrease over time just from the contacts getting warm from current flow.

Thanks again Hoople!
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