noise in primary
- Thread starter nascar7613
- Start date
If it's just the ring gear that wobbles, is it possible it has shifted on the clutch basket?
There is a shoulder that the ring gear should be against and if it isn't, you can use a dead blow hammer to make sure it's against the shoulder. Once the ring gear is against the shoulder, it should be straight and in the right position for the starter gear. Just something you might want to check and would be a cheap fix.
There is a shoulder that the ring gear should be against and if it isn't, you can use a dead blow hammer to make sure it's against the shoulder. Once the ring gear is against the shoulder, it should be straight and in the right position for the starter gear. Just something you might want to check and would be a cheap fix.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Wouldnt a bit oh heat on the ring gear all the way around it help to drve it back tro the shoulder? That is how we used to install them
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
After re reding this I am wondering how you are spinning the hub with the plates removed? Is the hub tightened ? You say the tranny main shaft looks OK, tho when you spin it it appears noisey? Is it possible the inner primary bearing is bad?
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
dolt
Well-Known Member
I am wondering what "wobbling" means and what is wobbling. If the OP is saying he can move the clutch basket left/right or up/down, sounds like the clutch hub bearing is going south.
WRT to the compensator, the early model comp nuts would sometime "bottom out" when torque to spec which prevented the nut from achieving the clamping pressure which would result in compensator nuts coming loose from time to time. The MoCo adressed the issue with shims that would space the comp nut outboard and prevent it from bottoming out allowing proper clamping pressure when torqued to spec. As usual, before the MoCo addressed the issue, the DIY guys started milling .030" off the end of the comp nut to solve the problem. The attached diagram will illustrate.
WRT to the compensator, the early model comp nuts would sometime "bottom out" when torque to spec which prevented the nut from achieving the clamping pressure which would result in compensator nuts coming loose from time to time. The MoCo adressed the issue with shims that would space the comp nut outboard and prevent it from bottoming out allowing proper clamping pressure when torqued to spec. As usual, before the MoCo addressed the issue, the DIY guys started milling .030" off the end of the comp nut to solve the problem. The attached diagram will illustrate.
nascar7613
Active Member
It isn't the ring gear itself it is the clutch shell, I had look it up to find the name of it. I do have the clutch discs removed. I can spin the clutch hub in the center and when the clutch shell starts to turn I can see it doesn't run true, kinda like a warped brake rotor. When I watch the ring gear turn next to the starter gear as a reference I can see that the clutch shell moves in and out, but the clutch hub turns true.
tourbox
Senior Member
If you have wobble between the shell & the hub then your hub bearing is bad. You shouldn't have any play between the two. The bearing is pressed into the shell then you press the hub into the bearing. Both being pressed there shouldn't be any play/wobble. You could have spun the bearing in the shell, or it wore out the hole for the bearing.
tourbox
tourbox
dolt
Well-Known Member
Pre-'03, when the Timken crank bearing was still in use, comp torque value was 150-165 foot pounds. '03 went to the torque to value and then to an angle but don't recall the value for '04 or the angle. I would bet that the torque to value and then to an angle will produce near 200 foot pounds.