Fisherking
Active Member
On my 02 Fatboy i have never seen the temp get over 220.
I run Mobil 1 20-50 full synthetic.
F.K.
I run Mobil 1 20-50 full synthetic.
F.K.
Oil Temp
- Thread starter HDFatboylo
- Start date
I also have a Fatboy Lo,last year when I bought it and ran it for 1st 1000 miles the temp would get up to 220 max on the normal oil. I switched to full synthetic and the temp is around 200-210 in 90 degree weather, but it usually runs anywhere from 180(winter) to 210(summer) but it depends on the traffic, weather (windy days it always cooler), etc... I bought one of those analog thermometers dipsticks and can glance down while sitting at a redlight and see what the temp is. If you dont have one I highly recommend it. I asked my dealer if I should get an oil cooler and he said he doesnt use one, and so far the temp hasnt spiked enough to scare me yet into buying a cooler and I ride almost everyday to work on it. Plus my legs tell me when the engine is getting hot :newsmile014: Thinking about a shield for the heat. I Hope this helps you!
I have an 01 Heritage with that analog oil temp dipstick. Mine says on the dipstick to check oil level while on the kickstand. Does yours? Do you think the oil level is accurate? I have checked my temp and it is right on.
thanks
Bill
scottyguitar
Member
I have a 2008 Fat Boy. Before I put the H-D deluxe oil cooler on it and started using Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50, it was running around 240 on the highway and around 260 in town, at ambient temps in the mid-90s. After installing the above, I am seeing around 190 on the highway and 225 in town.
I use an analog temp indicating dipstick.
I expect to see a further drop in temp once I install the Big Sucker a/c and the V&H Fuelpack.
I bought the bike used; the previous owner had installed V&H Short Shots but had not had the bike retuned.
From everything I have read, these twin cam 96 ci motors run hot out of the box. Cooling them off a bit is a good thing, IMHO. I think I would not be wrong in stating that, here in the south at least, some sort of oil cooler is a necessity on one of these babies.
I use an analog temp indicating dipstick.
I expect to see a further drop in temp once I install the Big Sucker a/c and the V&H Fuelpack.
I bought the bike used; the previous owner had installed V&H Short Shots but had not had the bike retuned.
From everything I have read, these twin cam 96 ci motors run hot out of the box. Cooling them off a bit is a good thing, IMHO. I think I would not be wrong in stating that, here in the south at least, some sort of oil cooler is a necessity on one of these babies.
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
scottyguitar,
The oil coolers are needed as the way HD made the stroker to 4.375...
They moved the wrist pin up toward the top of the piston and cut off the skirt.. Bad for heat.. Funny how they went from 4 1/4 inches in the EVO's to 4 inches on the TC then did a cheap version of a stroked engine and even backed off the bore size...
Some turn around.. I'd like the motor to Not have the shortened piston and it would run a lot COOLER...
I have a Jagg 10 row waiting in Az. when I get there and It will need it there..
Just checked My compression on my 96" 09 FLHR and it is exactly at 200 lbs front and back.. Now that Makes MORE Heat yet...(SE 255 cams raised compression= POWER)
signed....BUBBIE
The oil coolers are needed as the way HD made the stroker to 4.375...
They moved the wrist pin up toward the top of the piston and cut off the skirt.. Bad for heat.. Funny how they went from 4 1/4 inches in the EVO's to 4 inches on the TC then did a cheap version of a stroked engine and even backed off the bore size...
Some turn around.. I'd like the motor to Not have the shortened piston and it would run a lot COOLER...
I have a Jagg 10 row waiting in Az. when I get there and It will need it there..
Just checked My compression on my 96" 09 FLHR and it is exactly at 200 lbs front and back.. Now that Makes MORE Heat yet...(SE 255 cams raised compression= POWER)
signed....BUBBIE
Aerodawg
Member
Rode to work today (16 miles) was in the mid 90's, not too much stop and go traffic and when I parked it oil temp was at 220, when i got home tonight oil temp was 210 when I parked it. Bike was on side stand when checked each time. But today I could feel the heat when riding a lot more than usual as it was so hot and humid. This is pretty much where my oil temp stays I try to avoid stop and go traffic as much as possible. Still love the anolog dipstick for peace of mind.
Aerodawg, if you are seeing 220*F you are at the point where putting in 100% Synthetic oils made for motorcycles - especially air cooled V-twins would be beneficial. Think a moment...212*F is the boiling point of water, and the limit where standard oils start to degrade rather severely. :newsmile011:
You will improve the heat dissipation and oil lubricant properties by using an oil that will not start to breakdown...and begins to lose it's viscocity index, ability to keep particulate matter suspended and oil film break down, especially if you go the full 5,000 mile oil change recommendation under these continuous conditions. :newsmile036:
Might also want to consider heat management deflectors...check out Zoood (RJS Originals) for their sweet looking high performance ones. Saves the rider from all the radiant heat off the motor and cats, keeping you fresh and alert. The "Tank" just put them on his bike...and he is in the "Zone" (Arizona) which means he knows heat...:devil
You will improve the heat dissipation and oil lubricant properties by using an oil that will not start to breakdown...and begins to lose it's viscocity index, ability to keep particulate matter suspended and oil film break down, especially if you go the full 5,000 mile oil change recommendation under these continuous conditions. :newsmile036:
Might also want to consider heat management deflectors...check out Zoood (RJS Originals) for their sweet looking high performance ones. Saves the rider from all the radiant heat off the motor and cats, keeping you fresh and alert. The "Tank" just put them on his bike...and he is in the "Zone" (Arizona) which means he knows heat...:devil
scottyguitar
Member
Thanks for the explanation, Bubbie. Shorter piston skirts and higher compression causing higher jug temps makes perfect sense.
Right on, man! :ap
Right on, man! :ap
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
This is why I say use a TFI or Gen3 and it will run a lot COOLER.
Take a look at the website for Dobecks Performance and as a "Student of the Hog", Much there for all to read..
Gotta remember that HD's Hands are Tied by the EPA....
signed....BUBBIE
Locopilot750
Member
I was curious about the accuracy of the dipstick analog thermometer, so I pulled it out, cleanded it up, and put it in a pan of water on the stove with a high-grade candy thermometer. The HD dipstick ran about 8 degrees hotter all around, than the candy thermometer did. So figuring it that way, I have to mentally subtract about 8 deg from the readings I see in the tank, and realize that I'm not running as hot as I thought.