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Panhead clutch problem

BUBBIE said:
It would work the same as the cable..

On my Dads 51, the rod adjustment was done so it would fully disengage and Maybe yours is too Loose of an adjustment?

The suicide clutch should totally move enough to release the plates... DID it work before adjustment?

One reason I always want to see and remember Where the original adjustment was Before I Rework the clutch adjustment..


ALSO,,,, where are you getting the information to adjust the clutch???

Hope you are Not using the modern bike adjustment here....
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Bubbie, it looks like he used the self help video for newer clutches, this will not work on the old dry clutches
 
Your clutch is WAY different than the TC bikes THAT adjustment you used was for....

You must have a 3 bolt clutch setup and more than likely the plates COULD be gummed up and need to be cleaned.. Steel wool the steel plates to remove shinny spots (shinny is not your friend here) and clean fiber with brake clean.. CAREFUL NOT to mix up and put back into clutch basket the same order they came out.
NOT flipping around, Mixing them or they will not be smooth as they should be... The Throw rod MAY be all the adjustment you need. TOTAL release is needed and then total tightness is needed on the clutch plates when you go the opposite direction on the suicide foot clutch (out). 1/8 inch is the free-play ON THE LEVER from the shifter to the tranny.. No more is needed...

You also probably have roller style clutch throw out bearings and Not Ball type IF STOCK...

Best I can do for now, Hope this helped.

signed....BUBBIE
 
I used to know every nut & bolt on my 52 Pan. But time has erased some data!
If you're still havin problem I have these thoughts:
Stabilize the bike with the back tire off the ground.
Tinker with the adjustments of the clutch push rod and the 5 nuts on the studs. Seem to recall locking tabs to punch back so you can turn the nuts.

Hope this helps and you are enjoying that old ride again, and often.
 
Spade5 said:
Would you mind posting a couple of pictures? I have never seen the mechanism.
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Harley-Davidson : F Harley-Davidson : F | eBay
Here's a foot clutch pic. I found on Ebay (first pic in the series). It's called a "rocker" because front down = go, rear down = disengage. It wll stay in either position without a foot on it (unlike a "suicide" which has a spring that returns it to engaged position without a foot on). Very hard to see in the pic is the rod close to the the top of the chrome primary cover that goes from the pedal to the clutch arm that is just in front of the chrome chain guard.
 
mc2 said:
I used to know every nut & bolt on my 52 Pan. But time has erased some data!
If you're still havin problem I have these thoughts:
Stabilize the bike with the back tire off the ground.
Tinker with the adjustments of the clutch push rod and the 5 nuts on the studs. Seem to recall locking tabs to punch back so you can turn the nuts.

Hope this helps and you are enjoying that old ride again, and often.
Click to expand...

Alot of the clutch hubs had 3- 5 nuts, They had grooves cut in the nuts so when you made the adjustment on the outer pressure plate the nuts could be turned one flat at a time, they would lock in place. The center adjuster is the most critical similar to the modern clutches, it sets the distance for release with the push rod:s Biggest problem with the early dry clutch was leaking tranny seal, this would make a mess of the clutch plates, you could take the plates out bake them in the oven( DONT GET CAUGHT and reassemble them:s)
 
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