Parts Help
- Thread starter timaloy
- Start date
There may not be much flowting around as the metal from the splines (rotor or crank) would be grabbed by the magnets in the rotor. Just another reason to take the primary assembly off. Remember if you do take the compensator, rotor and clutch off the nut on the clutch is left handed.
karlsbike
Active Member
I just had the comp nut coming loose, causing havoc in the primary:
The rotor splines were sheared off, but the shaft splines were good as new (supporting Tim's claims).
I assume BTW you were looking at the rotor from the chain adjustment cover, not the derby cover? Never tried that, but it should be doable.
One thing you do not know, is if the stator is toast as well. The hole in my rotor was oval, and the thing had worn down /cut off several stator magnets and part of the lip in the case that holds the sealing O-ring in place.
You can imagine the sight when I opened the primary - I had aluminium bits, steel bits, and magnet bits everywhere - a right mess. The clutch ass'y was luckily ok...
What I did next, is only doable on a Harley (possibly old Brit iron as well):
I carefully cleaned out ALL pieces, installed new stator and rotor, cluch basket ass'y, chain and comp nut, primary, filled with oil, and she is good to go - unbelievable!
Bottom line: Open the primary before ordering parts (from Zanotti's)
The rotor splines were sheared off, but the shaft splines were good as new (supporting Tim's claims).
I assume BTW you were looking at the rotor from the chain adjustment cover, not the derby cover? Never tried that, but it should be doable.
One thing you do not know, is if the stator is toast as well. The hole in my rotor was oval, and the thing had worn down /cut off several stator magnets and part of the lip in the case that holds the sealing O-ring in place.
You can imagine the sight when I opened the primary - I had aluminium bits, steel bits, and magnet bits everywhere - a right mess. The clutch ass'y was luckily ok...
What I did next, is only doable on a Harley (possibly old Brit iron as well):
I carefully cleaned out ALL pieces, installed new stator and rotor, cluch basket ass'y, chain and comp nut, primary, filled with oil, and she is good to go - unbelievable!
Bottom line: Open the primary before ordering parts (from Zanotti's)
Well said karl. It just sounds to me that the diagnosis that was done without proper inspection was suspect. Once you have the parts in hand than ordering the proper parts is doable. Nice work on replacing the parts that needed replacing and glad your back up and running. Can I ask what the cost of the parts were across the pond?
karlsbike
Active Member
I ended up in the US 400 region for the rotor and stator. Supplied my own ass'y lube and elbow grease to get it all sorted
.
Actually, this dealer seems to have a reasonable parts policy for real parts (i.e. internal stuff), while shiny and go fast stuff is VERY expensive (up to 3 times US prices).
As you can imagine, I do not buy my go fast&shiny parts from them, but import directly from the US - normally Zanotti's, H&M or M&M Cycles (sometimes eBay) and save up to 50% off the dealer prices - including shipping & import tax!
How is your investigations going, btw, have you taken off the primary yet?
Inquiring minds want to know...
. Actually, this dealer seems to have a reasonable parts policy for real parts (i.e. internal stuff), while shiny and go fast stuff is VERY expensive (up to 3 times US prices).
As you can imagine, I do not buy my go fast&shiny parts from them, but import directly from the US - normally Zanotti's, H&M or M&M Cycles (sometimes eBay) and save up to 50% off the dealer prices - including shipping & import tax!
How is your investigations going, btw, have you taken off the primary yet?
Inquiring minds want to know...
I love Zanotti and get most of my parts from them. However check Chicago HD also and compare the two. I found that Chicago HD is cheaper for the SE compensator kit and Zanotti cheaper for the IDS pulley. I'll be making a split order.
I ended up in the US 400 region for the rotor and stator. Supplied my own ass'y lube and elbow grease to get it all sorted
Actually, this dealer seems to have a reasonable parts policy for real parts (i.e. internal stuff), while shiny and go fast stuff is VERY expensive (up to 3 times US prices).
As you can imagine, I do not buy my go fast&shiny parts from them, but import directly from the US - normally Zanotti's, H&M or M&M Cycles (sometimes eBay) and save up to 50% off the dealer prices - including shipping & import tax!
How is your investigations going, btw, have you taken off the primary yet?
Inquiring minds want to know...
Karl,
I get over to Norway a couple time a year for work. I almost died when I had to pay $65 (US) for a dealer T-Shirt from Lazy Boyz in Oslo. But I couldn't go home without one.
The beer in Norway is good, but not cheap either.
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok Guys,
Just got the time to pull it apart and here are my findings. Rotor splines are softer than crank splines. I had no splines left on the rotor so it was spinning freely as opposed to with the crank, honestly the rotor had not a trace of a spline. So, I have ordered a new rotor, cost $109 and once that's in I will be good to go. Thank you all again for your helpful comments, sure save me a pile of dough.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Thats what its all about Don, Helping keep this site up and running and the best on The Web:s
Will be donating, don't worry about that