Progressive Touring Link Chassis Stabilizer Install Question/Resulting Exhaust Leak Issue

[Bodeen]

Concentrate here. So, you didn't replace the exhaust gasket? That may be your only problem. Get you a new OEM gasket and try again. Concentrate.. Dont get in a hurry! The HD exhaust to head gasket is the most forgiving.

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

The stud is removeable by double nutting it to back out, with the slight possibility of snapping it off in the head (just to give you more to worry about). When removed, you could use an allen head bolt in that spot.

The stud is removeable by double nutting it to back out,

Thanks Pete, I had mine out before that's why I floated the idea.

I'm not sure I understand what the advantage would be to removing that stud and replacing it with something else. You still would have to put a nut on it to tighten the flange against the cylinder, right?

Concentrate here. So, you didn't replace the exhaust gasket? That may be your only problem. Get you a new OEM gasket and try again. Concentrate.. Dont get in a hurry! The HD exhaust to head gasket is the most forgiving.

Geesh, you sound like my wife, the yoga instructor! No, I didn't replace the gasket because I didn't totally remove the header. In hindsight, this was a mistake. Apparently, any movement of the header away from the cylinder head can cause movement and misalignment of the gasket when the header/flange are reinstalled. As I said, I do have some gaskets that haven't been used yet so that's why I'm considering starting all over again.

As far as putting a small dimple in the header to gain more room is possible. I once had the same problem on a race car and I ever so lightly put a small dimple with a hammer and it worked. A small dimple should not cause any exhaust flow issues.

So, if I decide to go this route and I don't trust myself banging on the header with a hammer, what kind of establishment would be able to deform a small channel into this header to enable a socket and maybe an extension to get perfectly aligned access to the nut?

Muffler shop? Some other type of metal/machine shop?

 

[Jeff Klarich]

From the pic you posted you only have to dimple it a tiny bit. If it we're me I'd mark the area remove the header and lay something solid over it (like a socket) and give it a rap with a hammer. Check your work and see if you've dimpled it enough. You really don't need that much room to make it work.

If your not confident you can pull it off I'm sure a muffler shop could help you out.

 

[fin_676]

When fitting an exhaust system to these bikes I loosely assemble the header pipes then fit the mufflers then tighten the fasteners starting at the head studs there is always a wee bit of movement in every joint
When tightening the nuts on the studs a wee bit at a time to keep the flange applying pressure evenly
You may just get enough clearance to get a socket on that nut

Brian

 

[Bodeen]

A well aimed shot with a ball peen hammer would do. Not distorting the flat mating surface of the header would be a concern. Is it doable with an open end wrench? Maybe a stubby? If it is, I would just go with that. You can approximate the torque needed for this connection without causing too much concern.

 

[TQuentin1]

Here's a picture of the nut right up against the header. Rear header pipe at the top, cylinder head to the right, crossover pipe in the background. The viewing angle is from the right side of the bike looking up a bit from the area of the base of the cylinder right where the pushrod tube is.

Dr. D,

Someone may have already asked this, but if you remove the heat shield, do you have the room you need to get a 1/4" drive socket and extension (6") in there to the head nut? I have always done it that way, and can't imagine HD making that big a change in the design. They have to get on these nuts too.

Cheers,

TQ

 

[Jack Klarich]

If you loosen the heat shield you can rotate it enough to give you more room to get on that nut with a 1/4 drive socket:s

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

Dr. D,

Someone may have already asked this, but if you remove the heat shield, do you have the room you need to get a 1/4" drive socket and extension (6") in there to the head nut? I have always done it that way, and can't imagine HD making that big a change in the design. They have to get on these nuts too.

Cheers,

TQ

If you loosen the heat shield you can rotate it enough to give you more room to get on that nut with a 1/4 drive socket:s

I hate to break it to you gentleman but the heat shields are already off! I'm starting to think that my bike was assembled with a head pipe that was just slightly out of specs - just enough to defeat getting a socket on this nut. This would explain why that nut was only finger tight when I took it off.

 

[Jeff Klarich]

1 more thought as if you don't have enough of them. I've been looking at the pic and it appears there might be enough room to get a screwdriver blade between the nut and head pipe. If that's the case maybe you can slightly pry up the pipe (indent) it enough to get the room you need to get a socket on.

 

[Jack Klarich]

I hate to break it to you gentleman but the heat shields are already off! I'm starting to think that my bike was assembled with a head pipe that was just slightly out of specs - just enough to defeat getting a socket on this nut. This would explain why that nut was only finger tight when I took it off.

Grind an older open end wrench down a bit, 10 ft lbs of torque aint very much