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rear brake draging

It is always good to take your time the first time you take something apart especially taking note of how it all goes together
every time i have a wheel off the bike i give the brake calliper a good clean up as it is off the bike anyway

Brian
 
Wow, that was frustrating. After ruling out all other possibilities I eventually took the wheel off again which I really didn't want to do but I knew I had to. I followed TQ's advice and cleaned the pistons really well. I also worked them back and forth a few times just to make certain that nothing was binding and everything was functioning properly. When I finally put everything back together it seemed to be working fine. Thanks to everybody for the good advice. Once again this forum has come to the rescue!

As frustrating as it was to deal with the brake issue I still learned alot yesterday when I was working on it. I'm still rather young compared to most of the guys on this forum and apparently still have alot to learn. I ended up spending most of the day working on the bike. It seems to take me forever when I do something for the first time. I don't want to screw anything up so I work really really slow and think about each step. The good news is the second time I pulled the wheel off I did it rather quickly and easily. So if nothing else this problem ended up giving me some good practice working on the bike and becoming more familiar with it. Besides it rained all day yesterday so if I cant go out and ride I guess the next best thing is to wrench on it right?

One final thing...did you pull the pivot pins and make sure they are true, smooth and lubed with high temperature grease? Water intrusion will cause rust if there is worn or pitted metal is exposed...may need to use a whetstone to true them up, or replace them if badly worn. :coffee
 
One final thing...did you pull the pivot pins and make sure they are true, smooth and lubed with high temperature grease? Water intrusion will cause rust if there is worn or pitted metal is exposed...may need to use a whetstone to true them up, or replace them if badly worn. :coffee

I pulled the pivot pins and they appeared to be in good shape. I didn't put any grease on them because the dealers told me harley brakes dont require it. I was really surprised when they told me that because I have always used it when working on car brakes. Is it recommended to use brake grease on Harley's as well?
 
The Harley pads for the evo bikes come with a sachet of lube to be used on the pins however i use copper grease on all brake pins

Brian
 
I pulled the pivot pins and they appeared to be in good shape. I didn't put any grease on them because the dealers told me harley brakes dont require it. I was really surprised when they told me that because I have always used it when working on car brakes. Is it recommended to use brake grease on Harley's as well?

The Harley pads for the evo bikes come with a sachet of lube to be used on the pins however i use copper grease on all brake pins

Brian

SILGLIDE silicone grease better known as dilectric grease is a better choice for caliper guide pins and any sliding brake part, you can use it to dampen the backing plates of the pads well
 
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