SirDimsdale
Active Member
Thanks Trike Lady but let me know if you discover any other possibilities. Boom's info is also thought provoking and informative. Thanks Boom.
Rear Braking Problem
- Thread starter TOM6608
- Start date
trike lady
Junior Member
Ordered the parts book for the trike today, i will be compairing the rear brake master cylinder part numbers. Should have the book in 5 to 7 business days. I had read Boom's post and that does hold truth too, If you were to put larger rims on a car or truck you normally increase the size of the rotors. As I read through the posts one person's trike stops on a dime after the adjustment. Something is not right.
Boom
Member
On a further note, I've noticed the CSC kits use a similar 11.5" rotor (like front)for their rear braking----makes sense. I've compared notes with a fellow '10 TG owner. I think it varies from rider-to-rider but he says he can lock up his rear brakes---he is a hundred pounds heavier than me. I don't want to have to stand on my rear brakes in case of an emergency. I think eventually there will be an after-market cure but don't we love doing this?
My DFT rear allowed for re-installation of the OEM 11.5 disc and caliper. I dont know if the newer caliper's operation differs from the style caliper I have on my 1993 . But there's places on my caliper that allow for parts to slide, as in back and forth for it's operation. I removed and disassembled my caliper. Parts that allowed me to insert them in a drill press. I used 400 grit wet sand paper to refinish their surface. During assembly of the caliper. I greased and oiled those surfaces. I found that I have to make sure the lubricant is sufficient on these surfaces more often than just when I change the brake pads. My pads dont squeal or rub and my braking action is there when I need it.
zoood
zoood
trike lady
Junior Member
On a further note, I've noticed the CSC kits use a similar 11.5" rotor (like front)for their rear braking----makes sense. I've compared notes with a fellow '10 TG owner. I think it varies from rider-to-rider but he says he can lock up his rear brakes---he is a hundred pounds heavier than me. I don't want to have to stand on my rear brakes in case of an emergency. I think eventually there will be an after-market cure but don't we love doing this?
I believe someone will come out with a rear brake upgrade possibly Wilwood or Brembo. I cannot believe that they skimped on the rear brakes. Will post the part numbers for the rear brake master cylinder when the TG parts manual comes in.
Zoood may be on to something. HD brakes are single action floating calipers, meaning the pivot pin has to be true, not grooved and lubricated with high temperature moly grease. This is because brake dust and other contaminants can make the caliper stick not centered over the disc so uneven wear can result. Since the calipers are single action, the runout of the disc gently nudges the unpressurized disc pads and pistons back into the bores, so do make sure the exposed pistons and area is clean...sticking pistons can also cause poor braking and uneven pad wear.
Finally, air bubbles in the brake lines are hard to purge if the hoses go up and below the master cylinder so do make sure the "feel" is not spongy or flexes. You should be able to "howl" the rear brakes as the contact patches are so much larger and weight is biased towards the rear anyway.
Finally, air bubbles in the brake lines are hard to purge if the hoses go up and below the master cylinder so do make sure the "feel" is not spongy or flexes. You should be able to "howl" the rear brakes as the contact patches are so much larger and weight is biased towards the rear anyway.
trike lady
Junior Member
I've been reading through the service manual for the tri-glide. The brake rotors don't show groves or holes in them to disapate heat and I am wondering if some owners have warped rotors. The Tri-glide on my computer screen wallpaper doesn't even show a pattern on the brake rotors. A dial indicator and magnetic base to check for warped rotors. During assembly someone could have dropped the rotor on the floor.
miss kitty
New Member
my 2010 trike is doing the same thing, plus the brakes started squeaking badly at about 500 miles. it is now in the shop, again for the braking issue. this time they say they will replace the pads. i just know that i want to have decent brakes...thats the minimum, i should have it back this week and i can let you know if that helped. It has 5000 miles on it now and i love it except for the brake issue....
Hoople
Account Removed
Sure would! My Brother is running a 2010 Trike. Thanks Miss Kitty..
trike lady
Junior Member
I wonder what type of brake pads are being used and if there isn't an aftermarket set available that would work better. I wonder if they're using organic pads, maybe an upgrade to sintered if the rotors can handle it. :34:
I believe the situation is the size of the rear calipers and the number of pistons to operate them.
The Tri Glide uses dual discs up front being clamped by a pair of 4-piston calipers while the rear has a disc on each wheel and single piston calipers. The front brakes could use a bit better grasp on the rotors, but a firm squeeze on the lever does slow the Tri Glide quite adequately. The rear brakes take a very firm push on the pedal to effectively activate both rear calipers in order to slow the trike down. Once I was accustomed to the required pressure on the brake pedal, the rear brakes do a very good job of bringing the Tri Glide to a stop. The parking brake, located on the right side in front of the rear fender and could be quite a stretch for some to apply, is integrated for use with the rear brake calipers.
Above quote from Motorcycle Mojo Magazine 2009.
Cure for the problem and this needs to go to HD: Larger bore master cylinder for rear, larger rotors and bigger calipers. The same as the trike conversions use.
Do you know how people always say, "Read the instructions!". I started to analyze information on the Tri-glide rear brakes and some people say theirs are good and others are saying theirs aren't right. There is a paragraph in the service manual that reads, 'When replacing a bleeder valve in the rear brake caliper, remove the O-ring from the bleeder valve groove or bore and discard. The O-ring is required only for brake bleeding at the factory. Although not sold seperatly, it may be present in certain assemblies as curently sold. If care is not taken to remove and discard the O-ring, it may become lodged in the bore during bleeder valve installation and prevent proper torquing or sealing.
It seems like every time the brakes go in for service, they are about the same; maybe the O-ring is down inside the bore or there is no seal in the brake system at the bleeder and air is coming into the system. Just a thought after reading it in the service manual.
I need someone who is having a problem with their Tri-glide to try this out, order a set of the best quality Lyndall Racing Brake Pads for the trike (have the dealer do it since it's under warranty). Put a better quality brake pad on the trike, remove the questionable O-ring and bleed the system from the completely. The brakes are the 'Weak Link' on this trike, think of all the conversion units on the road and how they are constructed.
I believe the situation is the size of the rear calipers and the number of pistons to operate them.
The Tri Glide uses dual discs up front being clamped by a pair of 4-piston calipers while the rear has a disc on each wheel and single piston calipers. The front brakes could use a bit better grasp on the rotors, but a firm squeeze on the lever does slow the Tri Glide quite adequately. The rear brakes take a very firm push on the pedal to effectively activate both rear calipers in order to slow the trike down. Once I was accustomed to the required pressure on the brake pedal, the rear brakes do a very good job of bringing the Tri Glide to a stop. The parking brake, located on the right side in front of the rear fender and could be quite a stretch for some to apply, is integrated for use with the rear brake calipers.
Above quote from Motorcycle Mojo Magazine 2009.
Cure for the problem and this needs to go to HD: Larger bore master cylinder for rear, larger rotors and bigger calipers. The same as the trike conversions use.
Do you know how people always say, "Read the instructions!". I started to analyze information on the Tri-glide rear brakes and some people say theirs are good and others are saying theirs aren't right. There is a paragraph in the service manual that reads, 'When replacing a bleeder valve in the rear brake caliper, remove the O-ring from the bleeder valve groove or bore and discard. The O-ring is required only for brake bleeding at the factory. Although not sold seperatly, it may be present in certain assemblies as curently sold. If care is not taken to remove and discard the O-ring, it may become lodged in the bore during bleeder valve installation and prevent proper torquing or sealing.
It seems like every time the brakes go in for service, they are about the same; maybe the O-ring is down inside the bore or there is no seal in the brake system at the bleeder and air is coming into the system. Just a thought after reading it in the service manual.
I need someone who is having a problem with their Tri-glide to try this out, order a set of the best quality Lyndall Racing Brake Pads for the trike (have the dealer do it since it's under warranty). Put a better quality brake pad on the trike, remove the questionable O-ring and bleed the system from the completely. The brakes are the 'Weak Link' on this trike, think of all the conversion units on the road and how they are constructed.
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