Rear Wheel Bearing Fail

[Hoople]

These are the same diameter as the bearings.

They must have made some major changes to the way the Crossbones is set up. On my bike the outside spacers are not the same diameter as a 6205 bearing which is ~2.050"

My outside spaces do not turn when the wheel turns. If they were the same diameter as the bearing, they would turn with the wheel because they would turn with the Outer race. The outer race turns with the wheel.

Are you sure about that.

 

[gleason1]

They must have made some major changes to the way the Crossbones is set up. On my bike the outside spacers are not the same diameter as a 6205 bearing which is ~2.050"

My outside spaces do not turn when the wheel turns. If they were the same diameter as the bearing, they would turn with the wheel because they would turn with the Outer race. The outer race turns with the wheel.

Are you sure about that.

Most excellent thread Hoop.................
You are correct......those spacers are stationary when the wheel is turning.........therefore they must be touching only the inner race of the bearing, even though the spacers (on my softail anyway) seem to be the same diameter as the whole bearing. This means that the inner race must stick out past the outer race ?
Wow, we are all learning something here............

 

[gleason1]

Must not be any sealed wheel bearing experts on this blog yet , was hoping to have an expert set us straight on all of this.........

 

[Hoople]

The 6L027 bearing you purchased is a 6205. The outer and inner races on a 6205 are flush with one another. The inner race does not protrude out.

Let me save you some time and grief. If you were to measure the distance between the bearing shoulders in the wheel hub you would find that this measurement to be appox .180" shorter than the bearing spacer inside the wheel hub. This is done on purpose by the MoCo.

When you begin to assemble the new bearings with your wheel, you MUST press the brake rotor side bearing in FIRST to the bearing shoulder of the wheel hub. Then insert the bearing spacer from the belt pulley side. You must then press the new bearing in on the belt pulley side ONLY until it touches the spacer. Do NOT press it to the shoulder. If you do, you will press OUT the brake rotor side bearing which will cause all sorts of clearance problems with your caliper and disc rotor.

Everything is built on the distance from the brake rotor side bearing. Position of the wheel, belt, caliper, rotor are all built on the starting point of the brake rotor side bearing. That bearing must be flush with it's hub shoulder.

 

[gleason1]

Thanks much !
I will be doing the bearing install tonight after work and start with the rotor side.

Got home yesterday and prepared to install the new bearings.
Checked the wheel spacers closely and discovered that Hoople was correct.............they contact the "inner" bearing races only.
I tossed the bearings in my freezer and put my heat gun on the brake disk side of the wheel hub for a few minutes.
took out one bearing from the freezer, rubbed a little grease on the outside, and just pressed it in, seating it by hand.
Waited 10 minutes for the hub to cool, flipped over the wheel to insert the bearing sleeve, then proceeded to install the second bearing the same way by hand.
Put the wheel back on and took bike off of the jack.
No time to adjust the belt, but basically I am done and back on the road.

 

[hobo55]

The 6L027 bearing you purchased is a 6205. The outer and inner races on a 6205 are flush with one another. The inner race does not protrude out.

Let me save you some time and grief. If you were to measure the distance between the bearing shoulders in the wheel hub you would find that this measurement to be appox .180" shorter than the bearing spacer inside the wheel hub. This is done on purpose by the MoCo.

When you begin to assemble the new bearings with your wheel, you MUST press the brake rotor side bearing in FIRST to the bearing shoulder of the wheel hub. Then insert the bearing spacer from the belt pulley side. You must then press the new bearing in on the belt pulley side ONLY until it touches the spacer. Do NOT press it to the shoulder. If you do, you will press OUT the brake rotor side bearing which will cause all sorts of clearance problems with your caliper and disc rotor.

Everything is built on the distance from the brake rotor side bearing. Position of the wheel, belt, caliper, rotor are all built on the starting point of the brake rotor side bearing. That bearing must be flush with it's hub shoulder.

Very well put Hoop.

 

[R_W_B]

Thanks for the update Gleason, this is a most excellent thread. I'm now saving it over top of the earlier save to my hard drive.

 

[Danny420]

The 6L027 bearing you purchased is a 6205. The outer and inner races on a 6205 are flush with one another. The inner race does not protrude out.

Let me save you some time and grief. If you were to measure the distance between the bearing shoulders in the wheel hub you would find that this measurement to be appox .180" shorter than the bearing spacer inside the wheel hub. This is done on purpose by the MoCo.

When you begin to assemble the new bearings with your wheel, you MUST press the brake rotor side bearing in FIRST to the bearing shoulder of the wheel hub. Then insert the bearing spacer from the belt pulley side. You must then press the new bearing in on the belt pulley side ONLY until it touches the spacer. Do NOT press it to the shoulder. If you do, you will press OUT the brake rotor side bearing which will cause all sorts of clearance problems with your caliper and disc rotor.

Everything is built on the distance from the brake rotor side bearing. Position of the wheel, belt, caliper, rotor are all built on the starting point of the brake rotor side bearing. That bearing must be flush with it's hub shoulder.

Most awesome post Hoople.. I had recently re done my rear on my 08 crossbones. although I followed a youtube video to re press my bearings in.. the cat on the youtube stated to start from the pully side.. so I did. and all clearances / tolerances were off by a mile. The rotor was pressed against the back side of the brake caliper so hard the bike barely rolled . No need for a test ride as I could see my right side bearing was way to flush with the housing. So.. after finding this thread on google, I seen your post with the CORRECT proceedure..ie: install from the right side... after GENTLY seating the right side against the inner shim/seat, I re inserted the spacer and then I Gently pressed the left bearing to the spacer, as not to seat it to tight. After re assembly of the rear end that baby rolls like the wind, smooth and true...

SPOT ON MAN and ty. You most likely saved me from ruining another set of bearings. I am hooked on this forum now and find no reason to read at other forums. The advise I read here was a hub saver for sure !!

Danny

 

[Hoople]

You most likely saved me from ruining another set of bearings.

Glad it was helpful. The bearing you want to use is an NTN 6205 LLU. The LLU has a contact seal unlike the factory air ride/non contact seal (or 6205LLB). The "U" or contact seal is the key on keeping water out of the bearings.