Redhamster212
- Thread starter Redhamster212
- Start date
Redhamster212
Member
I think I may have worked out part of my start problem to a point, but the remedy I do not know.
I did a resistance test with a multimeter, as per instructions on net using voltage scale and connected as per x1k setting, the earth (Frame) connection is 0 volts drop, but the + Positive battery terminal to starter motor terminal is 0.5 volt drop also I have noticed that the first time I hit the start button the pinion moves out and hits the teeth on the clutch gear and does not mesh (it just sits there until I release start button),
The solenoid contacts that engage the starter motor to start it turning have not gone far enough i think to connect due to the pinion gear sitting hard against the back edge of the teeth on the clutch ring gear.
When I release the button the pin retracts, then when I hit the start again the pinion goes all the way out and meshes with the ring gear correctly and starter cranks.
The loud clunk sound I here the first time I hit the start is the pinion gear teeth not meshing with the ring gear but the pinion itself stopping short hitting the teeth of ring gear and staying there until I release start button.
The pinion shaft and gear as well as clutch ring gear I have not changed, it is the same one that was used with the OEM starter and no with the new one.
Does this sound feasible and what if feasible would you recommend.
Lurchy
I did a resistance test with a multimeter, as per instructions on net using voltage scale and connected as per x1k setting, the earth (Frame) connection is 0 volts drop, but the + Positive battery terminal to starter motor terminal is 0.5 volt drop also I have noticed that the first time I hit the start button the pinion moves out and hits the teeth on the clutch gear and does not mesh (it just sits there until I release start button),
The solenoid contacts that engage the starter motor to start it turning have not gone far enough i think to connect due to the pinion gear sitting hard against the back edge of the teeth on the clutch ring gear.
When I release the button the pin retracts, then when I hit the start again the pinion goes all the way out and meshes with the ring gear correctly and starter cranks.
The loud clunk sound I here the first time I hit the start is the pinion gear teeth not meshing with the ring gear but the pinion itself stopping short hitting the teeth of ring gear and staying there until I release start button.
The pinion shaft and gear as well as clutch ring gear I have not changed, it is the same one that was used with the OEM starter and no with the new one.
Does this sound feasible and what if feasible would you recommend.
Lurchy
It sounds as if you have two possible problems. The first is the battery cable resistance and the second is the starter drive not throwing out far enough. The drive is like a screw jack that moves the gear out to engage it with the ring gear.It could be in need of some service but going that far into the drive, I would just replace it to be sure. I would replace both parts and go from there.
Redhamster212
Member
Well went and dropped oil in primary, removed primary case and checked pinion assy, all looked okay, as mentioned i have had battery checked and tested okay, before i went to changing LT Leads i decided to get another battery, bought a genuine (Made in USA) sealed Gel battery for FXR, fitted it and the improvment was incredable, NO More clunks, when you hit the start button it kicks butt and does not miss, i have tested it over 25 times and each time it hits and cranks (No More Clunks), it must have been the battery al along, the battery had small copper plates attached to the posts which created a resistance, after fitting the new battery made in (USA) no Probs, thanks for your help guys, now i just gotta worry about a "Cyclone" that is about to hit were i live, symular to what you guys in the States go through alot but yours are called Tornadoes. all for now
thanks
Lurchy
thanks
Lurchy
Redhamster212
Member
Hi Al can someone help me ident my engine number,
1HD1EML14PY114496, now my confusion is that i looked up (on the net) HD ident no's and came up with the engine being a shovelhead motor (Maybe me very wrong), the motor is a evo FXRS-C 8/93 (Block Motor)? this has caused some confusion as bike shops have told me this date is around the time they changed to a different model, i do not know, can some one help me with this number, the bike another mate told me was a EX Police Bike ??, it has the front forks have a hose of sorts that comes of a manifold that connects the forks together, this manifold has a valve simular to a tyre valve,
regards
Lurchy
PS: Still chasing the noisy valve train and push rod issue, sent question to Andrews about noise.
1HD1EML14PY114496, now my confusion is that i looked up (on the net) HD ident no's and came up with the engine being a shovelhead motor (Maybe me very wrong), the motor is a evo FXRS-C 8/93 (Block Motor)? this has caused some confusion as bike shops have told me this date is around the time they changed to a different model, i do not know, can some one help me with this number, the bike another mate told me was a EX Police Bike ??, it has the front forks have a hose of sorts that comes of a manifold that connects the forks together, this manifold has a valve simular to a tyre valve,
regards
Lurchy
PS: Still chasing the noisy valve train and push rod issue, sent question to Andrews about noise.
Last edited:
Redhamster212
Member
Sorted my Engine identity out, just in the process of adding more baffle plates to a Suppertrapp 2 in to 1 on my bike hopefully to lean out the fuel a little.
Lurchy
Lurchy