You got it, and reverse to install.
Removing rear wheel
- Thread starter Dave S Texas
- Start date
Dave S Texas
Member
Sealed bearings both hubs.
Dave- I replaced my rear tire this past winter, removed the rear wheel, took it to the dealer to have new tire mounted then reinstalled. Later I found out that the dealer would have done the removal and installation for about $20.00 more. To me it would have been money well spent. I'm anold aircraft mechanic and like to work on my bike myself but the arthritis and carpel tunnel really acted up and I was about useless for the next week. You might check the dealer price. One man can do it easily if you don't have too many disabilities.
Dave S Texas
Member
"You might check the dealer price"
When I bought this bike, one of the first things I intended to do was buy new tires. OE tires were 8yrs old. First place I checked was the local dealer asking cost of tires. $350 for front & back Dunlop rubber. Not being as 'worldly' as age might imply, I expected that price included installation. The phone person then asked if I wanted them to install? Extra charge of $100 per wheel to install! $350 + 8.25% tax plus $200 seemed outlandishly high so I checked an IronHorse shop nearby. $65 ea if they had the bike, $33 ea if I bring the wheels and tires to them. I bought the tires from Jake Wilson for $209 and the IronHorse shop gets the wheels/tires. Local H-D shop is hard to deal with. Bought oil-filter from their parts counter.....sold me the wrong one! Took it out of the H-D box when I got home. Looked like something from Fram and it was different then the one I took off. Checked part # against manual and they did not match. Called and asked what they did. Guy sold me an EVO filter, even though I specifically told him it was an '03 FXDL. Cost me a gal of gas plus another $2.37 exchanging the wrong one for the correct filter. (Edit)
Please read this...
When I bought this bike, one of the first things I intended to do was buy new tires. OE tires were 8yrs old. First place I checked was the local dealer asking cost of tires. $350 for front & back Dunlop rubber. Not being as 'worldly' as age might imply, I expected that price included installation. The phone person then asked if I wanted them to install? Extra charge of $100 per wheel to install! $350 + 8.25% tax plus $200 seemed outlandishly high so I checked an IronHorse shop nearby. $65 ea if they had the bike, $33 ea if I bring the wheels and tires to them. I bought the tires from Jake Wilson for $209 and the IronHorse shop gets the wheels/tires. Local H-D shop is hard to deal with. Bought oil-filter from their parts counter.....sold me the wrong one! Took it out of the H-D box when I got home. Looked like something from Fram and it was different then the one I took off. Checked part # against manual and they did not match. Called and asked what they did. Guy sold me an EVO filter, even though I specifically told him it was an '03 FXDL. Cost me a gal of gas plus another $2.37 exchanging the wrong one for the correct filter. (Edit)
Please read this...
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Hoople
Account Removed
You can't include the $2.37 as an Extra expense caused by a mistake. You would have paid the $2.37 if they sold you the correct filter to start with.
Dave S Texas
Member
Well yeah that's true. It's more the cost of gas and my having to waste an hour messing with this. I believe I've made mistakes in the past too.....
Progress report: front wheel was pretty simple. Removed rear after installing front. Got the tire replaced and have wheel installed. Came upon an 'issue' now. I've been going by the SM, but it is written for someone trained or at least has done this before. Axle is in and nut still loose. When I jack the tire back up to install the shocks, is that going to get my tension back on the belt? I didn't mess with the adjusters since the SM did not 'say' anything about them. Reason I ask: disk side adjuster has about 3/8" of the screw protruding and I'm not sure I should perform any 'persuasion' to it in order to moved it back to where is was. Removing the wheel was no big deal, but this alignment issue is troubling. I don't think I made any rookie mistake, but.......? Advice appreciated. Thanks
Progress report: front wheel was pretty simple. Removed rear after installing front. Got the tire replaced and have wheel installed. Came upon an 'issue' now. I've been going by the SM, but it is written for someone trained or at least has done this before. Axle is in and nut still loose. When I jack the tire back up to install the shocks, is that going to get my tension back on the belt? I didn't mess with the adjusters since the SM did not 'say' anything about them. Reason I ask: disk side adjuster has about 3/8" of the screw protruding and I'm not sure I should perform any 'persuasion' to it in order to moved it back to where is was. Removing the wheel was no big deal, but this alignment issue is troubling. I don't think I made any rookie mistake, but.......? Advice appreciated. Thanks
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Proper wheel alignment is critical. If your real wheel is cocked you are going to have trouble. To align the rear wheel you need to fashion an alignment tool. There should be a diagram of this tool in the manual. If not it consists of a welding rod or other small diameter rod. Bend the rod 90 degrees about 1.5in from the end. Next take a tight fitting grommet or washer and place it on the long end of the rod. If you cant find a grommet small enough you can wrap the rod in electrical tape to make the grommet fit tighter. Next look at the swingarm on the bike. About 2 inches in front of the axle you will see a small hole. This hole is an alignment reference point to be used for rear wheel alignment. Take the end of your new tool and stick it in this hole. Next move the grommet so it is in the center of the axle. Now without moving the grommet move to the other side of the bike and adjust the axle using the adjusters so the axle is centered on the grommet. Check your alignment several times on each side to ensure there is equal distance on each side of the bike.
Now you have to set your belt tension. The tension can be measured off the lower debris deflector. If you look at the deflecter you will notice a cut out with measurement marks on it. Simply push up using about 10 pounds of pressure and adjust the belt tension according to specs. Use your adjusters to move the axle back and forth to set tension. Of course while doing this make sure you maintain proper alignment. There is a special tool you can use but personally I just go by feel. Once you are happy with the belt tension and are sure the wheel is properly aligned tighten down your axle nut.
I hope this helps you. The first time you do this it might take awhile but the next time will be a breeze.
Dave S Texas
Member
Yes your advice helps. Thank you. When I posted this last night, I'd already quit for the night. Now, I'm waiting for the garage to cool down, so when I get back into it: when I lower the wheel to set-up for shock installation, will having the weight back on the ground affect the adjuster difference? (Duh, btw: long spacer on the sprocket side and short on the disk side....right?) I don't understand why this adjuster difference has happened especially since the axle installed with few swear words or rubber-hammer persuasions. The adjusters were a little rust discolored but I cleaned them up without moving the screws and slud'em back in.
Next time will be a breeze.......I very-much like that!! Thanks
Dave
Next time will be a breeze.......I very-much like that!!
Thanks Dave
Yes your advice helps. Thank you. When I posted this last night, I'd already quit for the night. Now, I'm waiting for the garage to cool down, so when I get back into it: when I lower the wheel to set-up for shock installation, will having the weight back on the ground affect the adjuster difference? (Duh, btw: long spacer on the sprocket side and short on the disk side....right?) I don't understand why this adjuster difference has happened especially since the axle installed with few swear words or rubber-hammer persuasions. The adjusters were a little rust discolored but I cleaned them up without moving the screws and slud'em back in.
Next time will be a breeze.......I very-much like that!!
Dave
You are correct on the spacers. The large one goes on sprocket side and small on the disc side. Forget about the previous setting on the adjusters. Just because you haven't moved them does not mean everything will line up. I always tweek the adjusters when installing the wheel to ensure proper alignment.
As for having weight on the ground when adjusting I'm a little confused. These adjustments should be done with the wheel off the ground and the bike on a lift. Once you reconnect the shocks the wheel should be off the ground and you can begin your adjustment.
Dave S Texas
Member
Mission accomplished. Dropped weight on rear-wheel and axle moved back where it was. Shock lower holes lined up. Made 'the tool' and alignment was good. Adjusted the belt a tad tighter. Can't really check it without me on the bike, but I can barely twist the belt to 30° so that seems good. And the defector gauge shows about 3/8" Good to see new tires on now. Thanks to everyone who gave me tips/advice. I hope to help the next new-guy that comes along. I appreciate all who answered.