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Replacing Caliper Question

cmvsm

Member
Getting ready to do this this afternoon. Had a basic question about draining the brake fluid before taking the caliper off to replace it with the new one.

Is the fluid better drained through the valve on the caliper by attaching a hose and squeezing the brake lever, or is it better to drain through the master cylinder line that goes into the caliper, and just let it drop into a container? I was thinking a little of both, starting with the valve, as since its under pressure, the fluid may spray out if I unscrew the banjo bolt first and pull the line off that way.

Thanks.
 
haven't done it myself yet... YET... but going to because I'm getting stainless hoses soon. I will check in and see what you learned. I have been told that NAPA, or whoever you have in your area for parts stores, has a brake service kit that works both cars and bikes... it has a hand pump for draining from the bottom.
 
Awesome! I like the easy way! What about refilling? I'm sure you don't want contaminates in the caliper. Should you pump new fluid through the bleeder a time or two to be sure its all good clean fluid?
 
dont forget to use the new crush gaskets on the banjo bolt:s
 
Getting ready to do this this afternoon. Had a basic question about draining the brake fluid before taking the caliper off to replace it with the new one.

Is the fluid better drained through the valve on the caliper by attaching a hose and squeezing the brake lever, or is it better to drain through the master cylinder line that goes into the caliper, and just let it drop into a container? I was thinking a little of both, starting with the valve, as since its under pressure, the fluid may spray out if I unscrew the banjo bolt first and pull the line off that way.

Thanks.

If the brakes are not pumped up there should be no pressure in the hose, you can slightly pinch off the hose . There are special clamps made for this or you can use a small vise grips if you are real careful, I like to use all new fluid on any brake service to me it just makes good sense, JMO
 
Sounds easy enough! Thanks everyone. I did get a new set of crush gaskets for the banjo bolt, so I'm good to go.
 
When the lever is not depressed there is no pressure.
I just remove the flex line from the caliper and stuff it in a pop bottle.I have a rag held underneath when doing this.
Have never had a problem doing it this way and why take extra steps if you don't have to.?

Steve has you covered, the front m/c being higher than the caliper you need only prevent air bubble introduction as much as possible.., but do remove the nearest caliper to the m/c first, then the other and vice versa when installing. The pressure method using either old m/c cover or Mity-Vac from HF works great...no pain, easier bleeding :s
 
I purchased a Speed Bleeder valve, so we'll see how it works.

One final question. Should blue loctite be applied to the banjo bolt when re-assembling?
 
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Thanks Jack.
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