SS SUPER E carb
- Thread starter dangerdan
- Start date
I tried again this morning and would not idle cold.
Even got my wifes hairspay out to check for leaks at the manifold and the carb.....NONE.
Finally got the carb apart , inspected every last hole.
No blockage of any type as verified with a very strong LED light.
Visually inspected the throttle plate and shaft for wear ...NONE.
I did look at the intermediate and the main.
Main = 74
Intermediate = 295
You recommended installing the 28 intermediate and 68 main. Looks like I am close.
At this point in time I'm ready to throw in the towel. I am not a mechanic and my problem could be staring me right in my face.
If you recommend a new SS e carb thats what I will do.
Even got my wifes hairspay out to check for leaks at the manifold and the carb.....NONE.
Finally got the carb apart , inspected every last hole.
No blockage of any type as verified with a very strong LED light.
Visually inspected the throttle plate and shaft for wear ...NONE.
I did look at the intermediate and the main.
Main = 74
Intermediate = 295
You recommended installing the 28 intermediate and 68 main. Looks like I am close.
At this point in time I'm ready to throw in the towel. I am not a mechanic and my problem could be staring me right in my face.
If you recommend a new SS e carb thats what I will do.
You can turn it to face the throttle plate.It's the accelerator pump nozzle.The fine slit is the outlet.If you're at 1 1/4 turns and it's happy leave the intermediate alone.The 74 is too big but shouldn't affect the idle.When you say it won't idle cold do you mean right after starting?If so it's OK they do take some time to warm up.That's why the "choke" lever has a friction device so you can turn it down as the bike warms.Don't spend any money yet.We can dial it in if it starts and runs.Patience my friend.
Sorry for delay... BUT ITS FIXED....IDLES AND RUNS LIKE A CHARM.
I took it it all apart again, replaced the pump O rings and the accelerator pump nozzle O ring, all 3 were flat.
Adjusted the accelerator pump nozzle so it faces the throttle plate.
The float was sticking and I replaced the needle valve ,the seat and brass shaft. The float level is now 1/8 inch from the top of carb bowl.
I took out the main and intermediate jet.. looked thru them and saw light. Not being a mechanic, I did not know that when looking thru the intermediate jet, the hole had to be larger. I got some carb cleaner and soak it over night then blew it out. CAN ALMOST DRIVE MY CAR THRU IT NOW.
The idle screw is 1 1/4 turn from seat. Run great at idle (1100 RPM) and best off all do not see any black smoke.
The pump adjustment screw is out just under 1/2 turn. I took it for a spin and accelaration is good and without any back firing.
Next I will check timing and if thats good, will fine tune the air mixture screw with a new set of plugs.
Thanks FISHER for your help.
I came really close to calling a tow truck and dropping of at the HD DEALER
I took it it all apart again, replaced the pump O rings and the accelerator pump nozzle O ring, all 3 were flat.
Adjusted the accelerator pump nozzle so it faces the throttle plate.
The float was sticking and I replaced the needle valve ,the seat and brass shaft. The float level is now 1/8 inch from the top of carb bowl.
I took out the main and intermediate jet.. looked thru them and saw light. Not being a mechanic, I did not know that when looking thru the intermediate jet, the hole had to be larger. I got some carb cleaner and soak it over night then blew it out. CAN ALMOST DRIVE MY CAR THRU IT NOW.
The idle screw is 1 1/4 turn from seat. Run great at idle (1100 RPM) and best off all do not see any black smoke.
The pump adjustment screw is out just under 1/2 turn. I took it for a spin and accelaration is good and without any back firing.
Next I will check timing and if thats good, will fine tune the air mixture screw with a new set of plugs.
Thanks FISHER for your help.
I came really close to calling a tow truck and dropping of at the HD DEALER