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Steering Neck Bearings

hd4evr, Sounds like you are tackling the job yourself. If you do, would you be able to take some pictures of the inside of the neck, along with taking some measurements? I am thinking if it would be possible to seal off/enclose the inside neck area (block off frame holes) and then install a zerk fitting.
Anyone see or know of a reason why it would not work?

Thanks guys! Sounds like the next rainy Saturday, I've got a little chore to do!

HD4evr, you might start Friday after work regarding the disassembly, gives you extra time to determine what you need and for "extra" provisions, as inevitably there is "additional" things you run into when doing that "simple" first time job or expand on ideas like Hoop's. Been there... :s
 
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hd4evr, Sounds like you are tackling the job yourself. If you do, would you be able to take some pictures of the inside of the neck, along with taking some measurements? I am thinking if it would be possible to seal off/enclose the inside neck area (block off frame holes) and then install a zerk fitting.
Anyone see or know of a reason why it would not work?

HMMMMM, another good idea Hoop, sure would be nice to give it a shot of lube , a little lube goes a long way, I think I said that once:p
 
hd4evr, Sounds like you are tackling the job yourself. If you do, would you be able to take some pictures of the inside of the neck, along with taking some measurements? I am thinking if it would be possible to seal off/enclose the inside neck area (block off frame holes) and then install a zerk fitting.
Anyone see or know of a reason why it would not work?


Sounds like a good idea to me. Especially if the bearings only last 3 years.

I have not seen the inside of the tube, but it seems likely that you could plug the holes leading off the tube with epoxy. That should seal well and then drill and put in either a self tapping grease zerk or tap the hole for one.

May be best to epoxy in two steps. First time fill the holes and leave a bit of a recess. After that sets then come back and finish off with another round. That way you could really push the filler and get a good seal. May not be necessary, just a thought.
 
Sounds like a good idea to me..

There is a seal on both top and bottom but you almost can't help getting water in those neck bearings. All it takes is a couple of drops of water and some time to pass and the bearings are gone.

Closing off the frame holes would not be hard at all. I keep thinking there must be a "hook" to the idea or else HD would have done it from the get go.
Heck, just a shot of "Great Stuff" expanding foam would seal the frame tubes off until the next World War. That stuff grabs onto anything and once it drys nothing affects it.
 
hd4evr, Sounds like you are tackling the job yourself. If you do, would you be able to take some pictures of the inside of the neck, along with taking some measurements? I am thinking if it would be possible to seal off/enclose the inside neck area (block off frame holes) and then install a zerk fitting.
Anyone see or know of a reason why it would not work?

Yea, I'll be more than happy to do that. It make be a couple weeks before I get around to it though, because I have a college graduation to go to, and a son to move to a new apartment, so the next couple weekends are booked.
 
Yea, I'll be more than happy to do that. It make be a couple weeks before I get around to it though, because I have a college graduation to go to, and a son to move to a new apartment, so the next couple weekends are booked.

That would be Great. If you happen to have a caliper, the ID of the frame neck and the OD of the lower triple tree shaft would be a big help also. A picture of what HD calls the "Dirt Guard" would be helpful. It's not called a "seal" but instead a "Dirt Guard". One on top & one on bottom. I have a feeling why it's not called a seal...:p:p
 
That would be Great. If you happen to have a caliper, the ID of the frame neck and the OD of the lower triple tree shaft would be a big help also. A picture of what HD calls the "Dirt Guard" would be helpful. It's not called a "seal" but instead a "Dirt Guard". One on top & one on bottom. I have a feeling why it's not called a seal...:p:p

The dirt guard is nothing more than a thin washer on the top and bottom. They are pretty good out keeping gravel, leaves, birds, etc. from getting in the neck, but thats about it.

As far as sealing up the neck, I like the fact that everything has to be pulled apart for grease. This MAKES me inspect this vital area during scheduled maintenance.
 
Update:

Well, I feel like a real idiot, although a happy one! I went to my dealer to get the bearings for my bike. I mentioned what my problem was and he had his mechanic come out and take a look at it before he ordered the parts for me. The guy spent about 30 minutes with my bike, did the flop test, etc., and discovered my REAL problem................my handlebars were loose!!

What a dumb(edit) I am! He tightened them, and all is well. Didn't charge me a thing either! He's got my business from now on!
 
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Now that is customer service. I wouldn't beat yourself up too bad. After all it took a professional Harley mechanic more than a few minutes to find it. They would sure get my business though.
 
Some models like the FX line have the frame tubes welded into the neck that are open. This is why there are no grease fittings in these bikes. If you were to install a fitting and grease it, you would use gallons of grease and only fill the frame up with grease.:s

I don't know what years this applies to I have a 79 fxs I'm building and the neck tube has no openings into the frame tubes and one of the mods we're doing is to add a grease sert. If you do take it apart and this is the case with yours you might consider also installing a sert in the left side of the neck tube for future use.
 
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