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Sumthin' broke

If the inner cover you refer to is the "cover" and not the inner primary assembly, the cover doesn't have to come off to install that. If it is a chrome inner primary, then the clutch assembly also has to come off to install that as well as a few other things too.

Hope you have the manual before starting the job.

He may have been referring to the primary chain tensioner shoe if he mentioned the primary side of the engine.
 
Ok, I'm stumped. I pulled the primary & everything looks fine. There's nothing in there that has anything to do with timing, either.
The "inner cover" I was referring to, is a chrome cover-up piece that my wife got me for X-mas. Just haven't had time to put it on.
I've re-loaded the bike in the horse trailer and I guess we're off to the shop (when it opens). I have a hunch the problem is in the valve-train somewhere. I don't want to keep tearing stuff apart, so I surrender. I've found schematics for everything you can imagine online but it doesn't help track down a noise.
I think I need to buy a basket case that I can learn on. There's oil all over the driveway, we're throwing a 16th b-day party this afternoon for our oldest and my wife is furious. This would be a good time to go to the shop. I'll let you know what I find out.
 
After several people gave me advice from bad gas to tire pressure. I think the culprit is the stator nut. I haven't had time to dig into it but I talked to the head wrench of the best shop around (not a dealership) and that's what he thinks it is.
I kinda made it worse by pulling the entire stator cover. It supports the end of the cam and has the pressure of the valve springs on it. He said the only way to get it on is to cut the pushrods (which are factory anyway). At that point, we're only minutes away from replacing the cam:naughty

The real bad part: he's backed up & can't get to it for a week (even with "buddy priority"). At least I'll get the parts @ cost & no tax.
 
The stator is on the other side of the engine.You removed the cam cover.If you remove the rocker boxes it will relieve the pressure from the cam.BTW the Andrews EV27 will work with stock pushrods.It's just lazy to cut the pushrods to replace the cam cover.If the compensator nut is loose you need to remove the primary cover to get to it.But that would not cause a backfire.It does make a good bit of noise though.
 
My buddy who owns a HD shop has her now. He hasn't had time to even start on it. I decided to go w/ a EV23 'cause the bike ain't the lightest. He figures he'll start on it next week. I'll let everyone know as soon as I find out what the noise was.
 
We found the problem; one of the lifters chewed up it's needle bearings and spit them out. Now, the big decision, do we replace the parts, clean it out the best we can & change the oil every 50mi, about 6-7 times OR take a 2nd on the house and rebuild the engine & hope my wife doesn't leave me?
With 45k mi, I know I should go through it, but may have to wait a while till things pick up at work (which means: no bike this season :cry).
 
Do you trust the mechanic?If you do go with his recommendation.If it was my bike I'd pull the oil pump and see what's going on there.The oil pump will show if any needles went where the shouldn't.If the pump looks good you may be OK with a clean up and run it 'til money gets better.Oh yeah new cam and tappets for sure.
 
I don't think you would be happy with repairing the parts and flushing the oil. You would always have in back of you head that you didn't trust it. What if something works loose. Split the cases and do it right. It also sounds like you were getting a lot of bad information about parts and location of parts. I think I would ask around for a shop that you can trust.
 
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