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taking apart my evo dyna for base gaskets

smart phone technology is just amazing, sitting in the basement reading online, searching for parts, and info, being able to send a web page right to my phone, gps and radio, its wild stuff,but once you embrace it, it is a wonderful thing
 
I removed the back cylinder tonight, I can see that I need to get that motion pro tool to be able to torque the rear back down, it was easy to cut an allen to get it off, but that won't cut it getting it back on.

I fashioned a tool to pull the wrist pins out, I assumed that they would pull right out but that wasn't the case? I am a little concerned that I will have to tap them back in? The pistons seemed in good shape and neither cylinder had any scrapes in them. The one man machine shop that was recommended to me hasn't been in so I haven't been able to talk with him I hope to bring him the parts to look at on saturday or I will have to go to another indie shop that I know does machining.

Should I expect the machine shop or indie to clean the heads, and get the gasket material off the tops and bottoms of the heads and cylinders?

thanks
dave
 
y2kflhr said:
I removed the back cylinder tonight, I can see that I need to get that motion pro tool to be able to torque the rear back down, it was easy to cut an allen to get it off, but that won't cut it getting it back on.

I fashioned a tool to pull the wrist pins out, I assumed that they would pull right out but that wasn't the case? I am a little concerned that I will have to tap them back in? The pistons seemed in good shape and neither cylinder had any scrapes in them. The one man machine shop that was recommended to me hasn't been in so I haven't been able to talk with him I hope to bring him the parts to look at on saturday or I will have to go to another indie shop that I know does machining.

Should I expect the machine shop or indie to clean the heads, and get the gasket material off the tops and bottoms of the heads and cylinders?

thanks
dave
Click to expand...
Sure, tho I always like to do my own prep work, some times they will charge less if you do this, Try freezing the wrist pins an old trick we used on valve guides works pretty good, If your barrels are going to be honed make sure they use torque plates, just my 2 cents, Capital Jack
 
The gasket debris can be a bit of a pest to get off especially the base and lower rocker cover gaskets
This can take a fair bit of time to get it all off without damaging the surfaces so i would worry about the cost in hours to pay for it also they might get bored and use quick methods (power tools) and cause things to go slightly out of true

Brian
 
My parts were pretty bad. I took them to the bottom of the driveway and got real close with a power washer. The clean up at the shop made it look like I didn't even touch them and was well worth the money. The machine shop should clean up the wrist pins so they slide back and forth easily and evaluate the intergrity of all the parts.

I tried lowering the cylinders over the pistons on the reinstall but gave up after a few attempts. Install one of the wrist pin clips (the one on the opposite side of the bike from where you are working) into the piston. After oiling the cylinders I turned the cylinders upside down and installed the pistions. Start one end of the ring and gently tilt the piston back and forth and use a small screw driver to work each ring in. Don't force it. Only push the pistion in till the last ring is in. The pistons will stay in the cylinder when you turn them rightside up. Now you can lower the cylinders over the studs and attach the wrist pin and clip. Make sure the pin clips are fully expanded using the points of the needle nose when you reinstall. It worked for me but everyone has their own way.

I find when I am getting frustrated its always a good time to take a break before I break something - Bob
 
Hey, if you can take some pics, I need to do this on my 98 Fatboy and am having trouble seeing how this works in my head. (I do see lots of other stuff in my head sometimes):p
 
Good advice above on piston installation. Whether I start the piston in the jug, or use a ring compressor, I always have the crank at the bottom of the stroke. I try and avoid any unsupported side force on the rods. You said the machine shop will do "whatever is needed" to the pistons and jugs. At minimum I'd have the cylinders deglazed. And make sure the ring end gaps are staggered to spec.
 
I stopped in a shop in my industrial park and talked with the owner who showed me around, they are going to measure the bores to see what's what and if I need to have them bored, he has the machining equipment including torque plates to do the job right, he also recommended having the valve seats cut if need be. It all sounds good but more expensive than I wanted to do, and in NY prices aren't cheap
 
y2kflhr said:
I stopped in a shop in my industrial park and talked with the owner who showed me around, they are going to measure the bores to see what's what and if I need to have them bored, he has the machining equipment including torque plates to do the job right, he also recommended having the valve seats cut if need be. It all sounds good but more expensive than I wanted to do, and in NY prices aren't cheap
Click to expand...

A good valve job with new seals a very good idea:s
 
The old "while it's apart" list can get expensive, but it's a case of doing it right and not having to redo something later. I have wasted more than a few dollars by 'cheaping out' then going back in later.
 
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