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Thank for the In

What type ign. are you running, stock or an after market? You may want to recheck your timing with a timing light. Are you still running a VOES? May want to check that also.
tourbox
 
Still sound like detonation to me. Could very will be a timing issue as tourbox has suggested; a good place to start. A compression test would be a good idea as well.;)
 
tourbox said:
What type ign. are you running, stock or an after market? You may want to recheck your timing with a timing light. Are you still running a VOES? May want to check that also.
tourbox
Click to expand...
did check the timing stock ign. had a little rust on cap cleaned it, but will check the voes , can that be bench tested ?? and has good compression , bike runs excellent like I said it, just when going 2 up and bike is at temp. and hit a hill, it did this , will check VOES and going to put higher octain in it and see what happens , thanks dolt & tourbox
 
Yes the VOES can be bench tested. It's a normally open switch with the bike not running. Only 2 black wires coming from it. One goes to ground,usually near the top motor mount. The other wire goes to your ECM module but turns from black to a Violet/White wire. There is usually a spade connector for that near where it grounds. When the bike,running, reaches about 5-7 in. of vacuum the switch closes and advances the timing electronically through the ECM. If you have a vacuum pump with a gauge you can test it that way. The way I usually test it is with a timing light through the inspection cover on the primary, less mess than the timing hole. I will line up the mark for TDC in the window on the crank. Then mark the rotor & inner primary with white ink or paint. At idle the 2 marks will bee offset. IIRC the rotor mark will be above the stationary primary mark. When advancing the RPM's to 2,000+ the marks should line up. If they don't switch is bad.
Sorry for the long post
tourbox
 
tourbox said:
Yes the VOES can be bench tested. It's a normally open switch with the bike not running. Only 2 black wires coming from it. One goes to ground,usually near the top motor mount. The other wire goes to your ECM module but turns from black to a Violet/White wire. There is usually a spade connector for that near where it grounds. When the bike,running, reaches about 5-7 in. of vacuum the switch closes and advances the timing electronically through the ECM. If you have a vacuum pump with a gauge you can test it that way. The way I usually test it is with a timing light through the inspection cover on the primary, less mess than the timing hole. I will line up the mark for TDC in the window on the crank. Then mark the rotor & inner primary with white ink or paint. At idle the 2 marks will bee offset. IIRC the rotor mark will be above the stationary primary mark. When advancing the RPM's to 2,000+ the marks should line up. If they don't switch is bad.
Sorry for the long post
tourbox
Click to expand...
the longer the better I always say and thanks Brother , will try this in the AM and make sure mine is still good !! will up date you again thanks
 
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