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Thorough Oil Change

A less expensive way would be to do a normal oil change, refill with "sacrificial" dino oil, run engine for a bit, maybe 100 to 500 miles. When ready to put in 100% Syn, unscrew the oil filter and drain all the oil out of it and the engine. Put 4 oz of 100% syn oil in the filter, re-install and your 3 qts or so of 100% Syn and your done. Net cost $7-$10 or so for lower cost 20W-50 Dino "natural oil" flush of your choice and your wrenching time.
 
It's not difficult to do after the first time. Even then, it's not bad. Just make sure you have a empty quart container to place hose into.
 
I have 08 heritage,do you need tool to get return line off,I read someone wrote they just pinched tab together and pulled line off??
 
tlg1100 said:
I have 08 heritage,do you need tool to get return line off,I read someone wrote they just pinched tab together and pulled line off??
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After reading these posts I decided to look at my '08 Heritage and see what the fuss is all about with the use of the oil line removal tool. I slid back the cover of my oil line and was able to just squeeze the tabs of the black plastic "thingy" and was able to remove the oil line from the oil tank quite easily. No tool required for my ride.

Geez, and I just did an oil change back in September without scavenging the oil lines. Now I feel quilty for not doing it properly. My engine must be suffering for it. Oh well, now I know how for the next time.

But, IMHO, I really agree that it's worth the extra few minutes to get all the oil out of the oil system. It's almost 1/4 of the total oil in the system. Why leave it there when it is so easy to get out? Do we intentionally leave behind that amount of oil when changing the oil in an auto engine?
 
One thing I noticed that no one mentioned, is there are 2 o-rings and a middle plastic between ring that goes on the oil line under the plastic tab that if not removed and reinstalled on the return line will make it very hard if not impossiable to reinstall the line back into the tank.
 
The proper way to remove the return line is to use the tool & leave the plastic holder in the tank that way the O-rings & spacer stays where they are suppose to. To remove the plastic retainer there is a different tool that comes as part of the assembly when you buy the plastic retainers that mimics the oil line to hold everything in position, then you remove that tool & things stay where they are designed to. If you have both tools & develope a small weeping leak it is possible to change just the O-rings & that will usually fix the problem. FYI the size O-rings for the smaller line are A012 & for the larger line are: A112. Be sure to use the higher temp O-rings. the ones I like are... Hydrogenated nitrile butadiene rubber (Green in color)

Harbor freight has a kit with a wide variety PN 67644 around $12.00
 
I tried something different. While bike is sitting straight up after oil change, I put 1qt in the oil tank. Start engine, with a flashlight look down into oil tank, after a few seconds you will see dark oil coming back into tank. I wait just a few seconds more and shut off engine. Drain & refill tank with oil. Sit bike on kick stand check oil level, ride. Close enough for me to sleep like baby.....
wilks3
 
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