Tire Price,,good?

[FerrousBueller]

My rear tire (160/70B17) comes in both a 73H and 79V. 73H=> 805# @ 130 mph. 79V=>963# @ 149mph.

A 2-up payload body weight of 325#'s (Miss Hoople is working on this) plus a 637# dry bike sure doesn't leave you a lot of wiggle room.

I might be able to help you and Mrs. Hoople rest a little easier... maybe.

I think total weight of bike with passengers is split between front and rear tire (tyre).

I have no idea what the correct weight distribution would be, so, I used a pie-in-the-sky ratio of 30% Front, 70% Rear.

So, if 30% of 962lbs. = 288.6lbs. on the front tire,
And, if 70% of 962lbs = 673.4lbs. on the rear tire.
You should be OK!

If I'm wrong about any of this, I trust my errors will be corrected "Gently".

Cheers!

 

[Cleftwynd]

I might be able to help you and Mrs. Hoople rest a little easier... maybe.

I think total weight of bike with passengers is split between front and rear tire (tyre).

I have no idea what the correct weight distribution would be, so, I used a pie-in-the-sky ratio of 30% Front, 70% Rear.

So, if 30% of 962lbs. = 288.6lbs. on the front tire,
And, if 70% of 962lbs = 673.4lbs. on the rear tire.
You should be OK!

If I'm wrong about any of this, I trust my errors will be corrected "Gently".

Cheers!

Add the total weight capacity of both the front and rear tire together and that will give you the max load you should have on your bike. For example the tires on the new FLH adds up to a Max load capacity with bike, driver, passenger, and cargo to 1658 lbs.My bike weighs about 911 lbs before riders or gear leaving over 700 lbs to play with.

 

[Hoople]

Add the total weight capacity of both the front and rear tire together and that will give you the max load you should have on your bike. For example the tires on the new FLH adds up to a Max load capacity with bike, driver, passenger, and cargo to 1658 lbs.My bike weighs about 911 lbs before riders or gear leaving over 700 lbs to play with.

With all due respect,, I can't agree with that at all. Even under static conditions, those numbers are no-where close even in a perfect world.

So what your saying is this,,, If I have a bike that that weights 700#'s,, and has a Rear tire rated at 73(805#) and a front tire rated at 57(507#),, I can safely carry 500#'s of payload??

I never would want anyone to try that under dynamic conditions. Centrifugal force while going around a curve adds force or weight to the combined mass. Just like a drivers weight increases upon acceleration, the tires (especially the rear tire) will be under forces not seen using simple math at rest.

I would Never Ever take a 700# bike, load it with 500#'s of payload and then take a sweeping curve at 50 mph and expect a rear tire rated at 805 #'s to take it.

And your example is even worse.. A 911 pound bike and add 700 pounds of payload to it (1600 combined total weight) and expect a 79 rated rear tire (963 pounds) to support that while taking a sweeping curve?

If I ever tried that, I would make sure my WILL was up to date.

 

[01 rk]

If the tires are correct for your bike and the date code is ok then the price is very good based on what I have experienced.
Last summer I paid $380 plus at the HD dealer in Grand Jct. Co. for just the rear MU85.

 

[Ishmael]

I don't know much about making comparisons but I hope this will help. Recently had two new (2011) Dunlops, 402Fs, put on the Fatboy at Blue Ridge Harley-Davidson in Hickory, NC, for $486 out the door. I noticed they did a 7 mile test ride too. Good service in my opinion, fast, friendly and worth the money for peace of mind.
Ishmael

 

[Cleftwynd]

With all due respect,, I can't agree with that at all. Even under static conditions, those numbers are no-where close even in a perfect world.

So what your saying is this,,, If I have a bike that that weights 700#'s,, and has a Rear tire rated at 73(805#) and a front tire rated at 57(507#),, I can safely carry 500#'s of payload??

I never would want anyone to try that under dynamic conditions. Centrifugal force while going around a curve adds force or weight to the combined mass. Just like a drivers weight increases upon acceleration, the tires (especially the rear tire) will be under forces not seen using simple math at rest.

I would Never Ever take a 700# bike, load it with 500#'s of payload and then take a sweeping curve at 50 mph and expect a rear tire rated at 805 #'s to take it.

And your example is even worse.. A 911 pound bike and add 700 pounds of payload to it (1600 combined total weight) and expect a 79 rated rear tire (963 pounds) to support that while taking a sweeping curve?

If I ever tried that, I would make sure my WILL was up to date.

Well stated Hoople, I cannot argue with that at all, I had posted that after being awake far too long, The point I was actually trying to make is that the whole weight of you, your passenger, etc... is not ALL on the rear tire as I had believed was the assumption of others...

This was entirely my opinion and that and $1.50 will get you a cup of coffee. I apologize for not posting with with my brain in gear.

I do believe though that all tires will be safe at thier maximum rated weight and speed rating as they are tested far beyond those limits to ensure we all get home safe and sound. That being said, I also believe we must all use our better judgement when it comes to the limits of our bikes, the pieces we replace on our bikes, and our own abilities.

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[Hoople]

Thanks for clearing that up.

No problem,,, I hope I didn't sound too strong with my earlier reply but what you wrote frighten me. When someone changes out an ECM to fix a problem only to later learn it was only a loose connection,,"It really Hurts".
But that "hurt" is nothing compared to the hurt of bouncing off hot pavement. I just had to let you know in a strong way so it would sink in.

 

[mattmuir]

Thanks for the replys guys. I do think Cleftwing is right on the tires. I know that when most tires are rated for weight they do account for all tires sharing the load. On trailers for example, they even account for the pin weight to carry some of the load. Still I dont plan on just getting the min. Thanks again for all the tips.

 

[Billbo]

See if you can find someone in your area that changes tires out - I found a friend to do it for $100. Then check on getting tires and tubes from internet - try Ron Ayers. I dont know exactly what a good price is --- but, the HD shop here gave me an estimate of about $675 for both F and R - out the door. So I think I saved about $300 or so. Both tires were dated - one in (dont recall - early week in 2011 and one like 48 week of 2010. Plenty fresh and good for me.

Bill

 

[BlaineG]

FWIW, I just bought Front and Rear Metz for the 08 Ultra Classic for 440.00 out the door, and Metz are more expensive than the Dumlaps, and IMO, better rubber.