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Torquing spark plugs

I've read what others have written and here is what I do; run it down with my fingers after being swiped with antisieze, bring it up to snug then a twist of the wrist, just one wrist, with a 3/8 ratchet, not two wrists and in most cases the average guy puts out 90"lbs. then an extra little pull and leave it there. it may not reach the 17-18lb spec but I've never had one come loose and haven't stripped one either and like some, 18 seems like a bunch for and air cooled head, even with long reach plugs. just my .02
 
Caution: You want to be careful with never-seize, a spark plug, a torque wrench, and aluminum heads. I have seen where the never-seize was so slippery the torque of 18 ft. lbs. was too much and stripped the threads out of the head. Also, the calibration of the torque wrench can be off. When I install a new spark plug, I tighten it snug to tight, then a 60 degrees turn to crush the gasket, then back off and tighten it snug again, then 60 degrees turn. You want it friction tight. I don't use never seize, because I change them every 5k. YMMV.

Thorns
 
They are already on the spark plug. Why would you want new ones? You can get indexing washers at any speed shop.

Thorns
 
WOW !!! Thanks for all the replies. They have all been very helpful and educational. There are alot of great people on this forum.

I will always replace the plug if for some reason I have to remove it. I credit the new technoligy and EFI for this... but (knock on wood) I've never had a bad plug problem. I put new plugs in my bike every spring, and the old ones still look new. I usually use the Accel CycleLite Platinums. This year I put a set of NGK Iridium IX 's in. They seem to be equal to the Accels, but it's still a little too early to tell.

With all of that said... I know alot of people clean & regap the plugs and reuse them. If that's the case... or if I ever get in the position to reuse mine... I'd like to change the crush washer. Is it really necessary, or should it be replaced ? And like RibEye asked... can you buy the washers separately ? and where ? I took a quick look around on the internet and in some catalogs (Dennis Kirk, JP, etc.) and didn't see any.
 
I was always told just a bit of anti seize right below the washer where any corrosion would take place since the rest of the plug should not be an issue since it is so far into the engine and the heat takes care of it. Has always worked for me, and I always torque to the service manual values.
 
NEWHD74FAN said:
Amen Glider and Fossil, new spark plugs come with new washer for a reason, tightening the plug to "crush" the washer ensures you do not overtighten for best heat transfer and seal...especially if you do not use a torque wrench. The good news is if you follow Jack' 1/2 turn after the plug contacts the crush washer you will be very close...just don't reuse that crush washer doing it that way, else the crush washer being already down that 1/2 turn after contact would be too much.
Click to expand...
Quick question, I have often (and I'd expect many others have also) pulled spark plugs to look at the color/fouling/gap etc. and reinstall them. Am I always supposed to be changing out the washer for new ones each time I remove the plug? I know, in my lawnmower, I remove the plug to pour in fresh gas when needed - and dont ever change out the washer. Just asking.

Thanks
Bill
 
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