free website stats program True Gas Tank Capacity | Page 3 | Harley Davidson Forums

True Gas Tank Capacity

wildspirit97 said:
have you guys "SEEN" the fuel pump in the tank. The pump is rarely "submerged" because it stands straight up. there is also a "sock" on the end of the pump so don't think you would be sucking up any "debris"

I own a carbed bike with a fuel pump and I run it dry every time I hit reserve. been doing this for 10 years and 74,000 miles. The fuel pump still works, so I don't think running out of gas once is going to ruin or cause premature failure in the fuel pump. Now I know what they say, and I understand the way of thinking but........:dknow
Click to expand...

Fine rust particles can slip through the "medium fine screen sock" and when mixed with varnish deposits ends up as a brown "slurry" in your carb...just open the drain of a 3 or 4 year old bike, and look at what comes out, then pull the float bowl, and wipe with white paper towel...yecch, even if you are diligent just fillingup and riding regularly (we can do that in SoCal. I for one try to put an inline filter (usually easily replaced paper pleated one that is clear) so I can see if anything is getting past.

You know Murphys' law...I use one of those reusable "Gold Filters" fine metal screens in my coffee maker, now there is when a little bit of "fine" grinds slips thru, it gives the fluid that passes more "character" is a good thing, but still have to replace in about 5-7 years. :p
 
Last edited:
NEWHD74FAN said:
Fine rust particles can slip through the "medium fine screen sock" and when mixed with varnish deposits ends up as a brown "slurry" in your carb...just open the drain of a 3 or 4 year old bike, and look at what comes out, then pull the float bowl, and wipe with white paper towel...yecch, even if you are diligent just fillingup and riding regularly (we can do that in SoCal. I for one try to put an inline filter (usually easily replaced paper pleated one that is clear) so I can see if anything is getting past.

You know Murphys' law...I use one of those reusable "Gold Filters" fine metal screens in my coffee maker, now there is when a little bit of "fine" grinds slips thru, it gives the fluid that passes more "character" is a good thing, but still have to replace in about 5-7 years. :p
Click to expand...
Still, I don't think if you take a bran new bike and run it out of gas your going to cause any damage down the road. :p
I've seen it happen on older cars or bikes, but more problems occur by filling a tank to the top that hasn't been filled for a while. The rust builds up where the gas isn't, not in the bottom where you should always have some gas. That's why it's better to fill your tank as full as you can get it over the winter instead of draining it.
 
I would rather store it after the service is done than to let the oils with the acids sit over the winter in the bike.
 
wildspirit97 said:
Still, I don't think if you take a bran new bike and run it out of gas your going to cause any damage down the road. :p
I've seen it happen on older cars or bikes, but more problems occur by filling a tank to the top that hasn't been filled for a while. The rust builds up where the gas isn't, not in the bottom where you should always have some gas. That's why it's better to fill your tank as full as you can get it over the winter instead of draining it.
Click to expand...

I concur, if bike is new that is the case, but after a few years the fine deposits are abrasive and imbed themselves into Veton/Neoprene o-rings, seals and such. And concur totally with doing service BEFORE storing for the winter, filling the tank with gas and Stabil...warming up bike, pull the EFI relay (or turn petcock off, running the gas out of the lines (or carb) til engine stalls. Change all fluids, spray WD40 or tablespoon of oil in the cylinders, crank it to wet cylinders and do the rest of the winterizing routine. Here in SoCal, usually never have to do that, but is good practice...during the raining season (we have been in a drought going on 4 years now). :small3d015:
 
Yep, put it away AFTER you change out the oils. Moisture will form acids with the carbons just like NEWHD74FAN said. Plus, gravity after a few months will cause ant particulates to drop out and form a sludge in all of the oil storage spots especially in the primary where the clutch plates are.
 
NEWHD74FAN said:
filling the tank with gas and Stabil...warming up bike, pull the EFI relay (or turn petcock off, running the gas out of the lines (or carb) til engine stalls.
Click to expand...

Ok, maybe im still old schooled, but I was taught to NEVER run all the fuel out because it keeps the gaskets moist and running it out caused them to dry out, crack then leak later??

I just treat with stabil, run for about 15 mins shut it off till riding season for the fuel part.
 
how'd we go from tank capacity to winter storage...:dknow
Oh maybe that was my fault :lerosorry:small3d023:
but since we got here, like I said earlier, for 10 years and 74,000 miles, I add Stabil when I fill it up at the gas station, ride it home so all the gas with the Stabil get to the carbs and park it. The bike has never had a carb problem, never been opened up or had to clean the carbs. not to mention since March of 2007 when I bought my new H-D the bike sits a lot more than she used to.
now I know my other bike is not an H-D, but a carburetor is a carburetor and gas is gas so I think I'll still to the method I have always used.
 
I have a 07 street bob and got 170 miles off a full tank, all highway, i could have pushed maybe 2-5 miles out of it but didnt feel like walking.:D
 
ok i ran out of gas 08 flhtcu within 205 miles. took 5.5 gallons to fill so i am still looking for the other half gallon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top