Turn signal troubleshoot

[R_W_B]

Man, glad I read this. I just purchased the kit from the dealer the other day, along with a few other things. This appears to big a bit of a pain to do since the wires are in the handlebars. I have not looked at the instructions just some manual reading. From the looks of it I am going to need to remove the tank.

Other than what has been written here, any other tips, tricks or info on what to expect when doing this. How much time will I need. The bike is still on the lift from winter and suspect I probably got close to another 4 weekends at least before the weather breaks for a ride, so want to start this soon.

It's not that bad, I ruined my AMPs with ignorance. If you do them correctly you won't have my problems above. It is easier if you remove the tank. You could just remove the front tank bolt only and prop it up enough to get to the plastic plate under the frame neck.

Even to do that you prolly need to remove your fuel disconnect, your fuel gauge wire connector separated and the crossover tube separated. Just wrap a towel over the fuel disconnect before popping it off since it will spray fuel just for a second. (Always disconnect the neg bat cable first)
For the rest of the tank removal do a search on Tank Removal, it's been covered. I will try to find a link to an excellent video of How To for the AMPs but right now I'm short of time. I don't like working the wiring around the crossover so I drain and remove mine.

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Here I found it pretty quick. Notice the twist of his hand. Also make sure you insert the tool in the correct hole (I didn't and I reamed out my AMP sockets)
YouTube - **AMP connector**disassembly**part 2**

 

[bwalsh22]

Thanks for all the info. I messed up mine a little bit when I did the rear turn signal relocation, so a little familiar with that part, hopefully I learned from that one (The video definitely shows you the correct easy way to do it ). My biggest concern is just pulling everything out and removing the tank. Since I have to drain the gas and everything guess I'll just have to do the work and give the engine and nice cleaning while I am at it. Should be purty.

 

[R_W_B]

.... .... .... My biggest concern is just pulling everything out and removing the tank. Since I have to drain the gas and everything .... ... ....

To remove the tank,
I always previously run down to low gas level first then let your engine COOL all the way down. Don't work with gas around a hot engine.

Then some like to first remove the fuel pump fuse and then turn the starter a few times to lessen the pressure in the fuel line, others don't bother but wrap a towel around disconect. Either way I advise using a towel and wrap around the disconect on the fuel line coming out of the left rear bottom of the tank. Then push up on the connector and pull down on the bottom half. It will spray fuel into the towel for just a second as it comes apart.

Then disconnect neg battery cable, put masking tape over terminal.

Then unscrew the speedo console and carefully lift up and turn so as to see the underside. Disconnect all electrical connectors and set speedo aside somewhere. (The push button unscrews. ) Tie off your cables and wires coming to console area to bars or top tree, to keep them out of your way.

Then on the left bottom of tank up towards the front there is the fuel gauge electrical connector. Separate it. It's easier to get to if you go ahead and unbolt the front tank bolt and stuff a large towel under the front of the tank to lift it up some. (or if you have someone to hold it up for you)

Then comes the really awkward part. Siphon or pump remaining fuel in tank as empty as you can get it. Then put a dry towel over your rocker covers. Then I get two of those big clear rubber flex tubes (like you see at Home Cheapo) about 1" diameter, about 3ft long. I get a gas can and stick the bottom of these 2 flex tubes in the can. If they won't stay in use duct tape.

Then loosen the clamp on your side of the tank crossover hose. Grab the other ends of the 2 rubber flex tubes in you left hand and then with your right hand remove the one end of the crossover hose. Quickly (since gas is pouring out onto the towel) stick the open end of the crossover hose in one of the flex tubes and stick the other flex tube over the exposed tank bibb. Hold while fuel drains. Then you can remove the rear tank bolt and carefully remove tank and clean up.

No smoking or electric lamps nearby that might fall over and break creating a fire. It's not that bad really. Just have a plan and follow it.
Next time actually I am going to try to cut a 2 liter plastic bottle in half and try to make a funnel out of it to catch the gas when removing the crossover. I've seen others do this on the oil filter.

 

[Admiral Nelson]

It's not that bad, I ruined my AMPs with ignorance. If you do them correctly you won't have my problems above. It is easier if you remove the tank. You could just remove the front tank bolt only and prop it up enough to get to the plastic plate under the frame neck.

Even to do that you prolly need to remove your fuel disconnect, your fuel gauge wire connector separated and the crossover tube separated. Just wrap a towel over the fuel disconnect before popping it off since it will spray fuel just for a second. (Always disconnect the neg bat cable first)
For the rest of the tank removal do a search on Tank Removal, it's been covered. I will try to find a link to an excellent video of How To for the AMPs but right now I'm short of time. I don't like working the wiring around the crossover so I drain and remove mine.

===============================================

Here I found it pretty quick. Notice the twist of his hand. Also make sure you insert the tool in the correct hole (I didn't and I reamed out my AMP sockets)
YouTube - **AMP connector**disassembly**part 2**

He makes it look so easy - I can never do it. Tried and tried with my Vrod when re-locating the indicators.

 

[R_W_B]

He makes it look so easy - I can never do it. Tried and tried with my Vrod when re-locating the indicators.

Yea it took me awhile (and a few ruined AMPs) to get the hang of it. Some come out easier than others. Some pop out with the first twist others you have to pull slightly on the wire as you are twisting.

It also helps to push the wire in before trying to stick in your tool. This takes some of the bite out of the socket tab. Also the best tool I have found for this is a bobbie pin, bend it in a 90 degree angle and then beat the insertion end flat with a hammer. Then rub that end with some medium grit sandpaper to get it thinner. I can usually get a pin out in 4 trys or less now.

 

[Admiral Nelson]

I notice they sell removal tools but they are about $15 here

 

[bwalsh22]

Well, let me give you an update. Picked up my signals this weekend and started the install, which is mostly done, except for 2 keys pieces

1 - I was able to do most of it without removing the tank completely, just slid it back on the frame to give me some room...but forgot to do everything I read and snapped the EFI fuel connection plug, so have to call the dealer today to get the part. Really dumb on my part, considering I read it, knew it and just tried to cram this tank move between doing other things while the kids were sleeping.

2 - Left bolt is completely stripped and then some (not sure what happened here, I believe this was done before me, prior owner) cause it was a problem from the start) and I am trying to figure out how to get this off. So far I have tried every kind of stripped screw remover and one of them broke inside the bolt. Next, I am planning to cut a line to fit a flat screw driver in and turn, this is my last resort unless anyone has anyother ideas. Other option is to flatten a couple sides of the screw to make it turn with a wrench.

Overall, I would say the install and move was easy, without my 2 problems. The removal of the pins was a pain, but after a break I was able to get these done pretty easily.

 

[R_W_B]

.... .... ....
2 - Left bolt is completely stripped and then some (not sure what happened here, I believe this was done before me, prior owner) cause it was a problem from the start) and I am trying to figure out how to get this off. So far I have tried every kind of stripped screw remover and one of them broke inside the bolt. Next, I am planning to cut a line to fit a flat screw driver in and turn, this is my last resort unless anyone has anyother ideas. Other option is to flatten a couple sides of the screw to make it turn with a wrench.

Overall, I would say the install and move was easy, without my 2 problems. The removal of the pins was a pain, but after a break I was able to get these done pretty easily.

When you say Left bolt, what exactly is this bolt. Can you (or have you already) get a drill and easy out extractor to it?

You know I think I totally forgot to tell you to make a note of the wire placements before you removed them from the AMPs but just match them up with the female plug and you will be fine. I believe Black is always on tab 1, the violet OR brown on tab 2 and Blue on tab 3.

Sorry to hear about the broken line, I've been there on other things. My wife always gets mad at me when it's my fault and we are waiting on parts.

 

[bwalsh22]

When you say Left bolt, what exactly is this bolt. Can you (or have you already) get a drill and easy out extractor to it?

The bolt attached to the fork legs where the kit attaches to. That is what I tried and that is what snapped inside the bolt.

You know I think I totally forgot to tell you to make a note of the wire placements before you removed them from the AMPs but just match them up with the female plug and you will be fine. I believe Black is always on tab 1, the violet OR brown on tab 2 and Blue on tab 3.

I placed the amp connector on my manual and drew lines with colors to each one. Blue, Purple, Black. Plus, I repeated it so many times in my head I could never forget

 

[Iceman24]

Those connectors can be buggers to work with. Got pretty proficient yesterday installing my Driving Light kit. I found a small nail in my stash that fit & worked on the primary catch b/c paper clips just bend. Worked just like the $15 tool & was free (yeah). Glad you solved the signal wiring issue.