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It's not the EITMS system, my bike used to go into that all the time. I forgot to mention yesterday when I had this same problem my right rear turn signal wouoldn't work..tonight it was working. This makes me wonder if it isian intermittent ground problem somewhere. I'll unplug the fan tomorrow, Jack and see what happens then.

Good deal, I am very curious and hope you get it figured out:s
 
try some PEX clamps; also i used some hi-pressure hose i bought from NAPA.
just butter-lube the male ends of the oil cooler its self with some automotive sealant, slip the right size pex ring over the hose, then slip the hose over the oil cooler male ends and clamp the ring with the pex ratchetand let it dry over night. this worked excellent for me, looks great and absolutely no leak. good luck.
 
UPdate: Been working on this oil cooler for a week. I have just finished removing it, checked all the connections, made sure everything was connected properly. Then fired the bike up and, after my gauge read around 210* my bike started studdering again. removed the fairing, unplugged the fan,restarted the bike and it started studdering again, around the same temp. I plugged the fan back up and it made no difference, the bike still studdered but would smooth out as soon as I gave it a little throttle (Heatmanagement??). the fan never turned on either.
So I have two problems, fan doesn't appear to be working and bike runs ruough once it gets hot. I got to thinking about the heat management system and decided to call Techlusion to see if my heat management system could conflict with my TFI. I have the older TFI with the screw type adjusters. According to Matt, the HM on my Harley will confuse the TFI and cause it to shut down...thereby confusing my CPU causing the bike to stutter and eventually stall. I've had this TFI for a couple of years and never had this problem before. Matt's solution was to shut off the HM..I don't wanna do that. I'm not sure if it is the problem at thispoint. Any ideas?

My second issue is the fan not turning on. As I said earlier I straight wired the fan and it runs so it must be the thermo switc h. Called Larry at Ultracool and he is shipping me a thermal switch tomorrow. I'll let you know.
 
You originally said it wasn't the EITMS,,, then your asking if it is the EITMS.

Is the heat management active or inactive.

HM is active. It has never acted this way before. Perhaps my question wasn't clear, I'm looking for anyone with experience regarding the TFI and EITMS conflicting with each other.

Glider, I'm done with the motorcycle for today, got a yard to mow. I plan on deactivating the HM tomorrow and test again. I'll let you know.
 
Are you riding the bike until the oil temp gets to 200* or are you letting it idle sitting still until the oil temp gets to 200*.
 
Be interested to see if it does have an effect on the idling.

When you raise the RPM from the point of running bad, it would cut off the heat management. Does it return right away to poor running when it idles back down?

When you give it some thought, the heat management cuts off the rear jug and that is done through the ECM so it may have an effect being it's going through the TFI but I never heard of this before.
 
regarding the TFI and EITMS conflicting with each other.

Electrically conflicting=> No

But each item's purpose is to enrich the mixture. So if the TFI already has enriched the cylinders at idle, then heat management kicks in and enriches them even more along with cutting out a cylinder, the remaining cylinder is probably running at 9:1. Plus along with a lower idle,, Would I be surprised if the engine stalled? Would I call them conflicting with each other? No for both.
 
Are you riding the bike until the oil temp gets to 200* or are you letting it idle sitting still until the oil temp gets to 200*.

Hoop, both, I've let it sit at idle until the temperature built up and I've rode it around until it hit around 170* and then let it idle till it studdered. Once again, the oil pressure and voltage both read good.

Glider, when given gas it immediately smooths out and when put back at idle it runs smooth for maybe 5 secs and then begins to run rough. If I don't interfere it will stall out.
 
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