Before affected 2012 owners replace their regulator, check the condition of the shield covering the DC outlet wire...it's the two-wire bundle that leaves the right side of the regulator and passes under the right engine motor mount. It goes to the 40 amp fuse (B+) and chassis ground (B-).
On my new '12 Road King that wire was jammed between the frame and the right motormount bolt head that extends below the front of the engine. When running, that shaking bolt had chaffed through the external rubber/fiberglass wiring shield, and was on the way through the wires inside in only a few hundred miles. The chafe area is on top of the bundle, and hard to see unless it's pulled out from under the frame.
If the bolt head eventually wears through the B+ wire insulation, it can cause intermittent high current demand on the alternator and may cause it to fail. If sustained, it should blow the 40A fuse between the wire and battery. I didn't have a problem yet.
For a fix I put some 3/4" heatshrink tubing over the worn area and cable tied the wire bundle away from the bolt.
Gary
On my new '12 Road King that wire was jammed between the frame and the right motormount bolt head that extends below the front of the engine. When running, that shaking bolt had chaffed through the external rubber/fiberglass wiring shield, and was on the way through the wires inside in only a few hundred miles. The chafe area is on top of the bundle, and hard to see unless it's pulled out from under the frame.
If the bolt head eventually wears through the B+ wire insulation, it can cause intermittent high current demand on the alternator and may cause it to fail. If sustained, it should blow the 40A fuse between the wire and battery. I didn't have a problem yet.
For a fix I put some 3/4" heatshrink tubing over the worn area and cable tied the wire bundle away from the bolt.
Gary