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Wet sumping twin cam.

Other than what Glider said you can drain the oil from the bottom of the crank case and tell if your sumping, the little plug in the bottom will come out, just put a piece of 2x4 under the kickstand and drain the oil after you've rode it about 15 minutes or so, don't let it idle much before you shut the engine down, now get a good clean pan or something to catch the oil in, take a riderite ratio cup and measure the amount of oil you have, should be between 4 to 6oz's, can be just a little more say 7, but if it's 10 or 12oz's your sumping, the oil pump o rings or the oil pump itself could be leaking back into the case, hope this helps.
When reinstalling the plug be careful, it is a pipe thread and you will not want to overtighten or it will bust the case, just snug it up, put a couple wraps of teflone tape or pipe sealent on the plug before install.
 
TnGliding said:
Other than what Glider said you can drain the oil from the bottom of the crank case and tell if your sumping, the little plug in the bottom will come out, just put a piece of 2x4 under the kickstand and drain the oil after you've rode it about 15 minutes or so, don't let it idle much before you shut the engine down, now get a good clean pan or something to catch the oil in, take a riderite ratio cup and measure the amount of oil you have, should be between 4 to 6oz's, can be just a little more say 7, but if it's 10 or 12oz's your sumping, the oil pump o rings or the oil pump itself could be leaking back into the case, hope this helps.
When reinstalling the plug be careful, it is a pipe thread and you will not want to overtighten or it will bust the case, just snug it up, put a couple wraps of teflone tape or pipe sealent on the plug before install.
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Be extremely careful doing this (removing/replacing plug). Folks have had problems cracking the case at which point the sumping issue is minor!! There are a number of holes like this that are used during the manufacturing process, and are not intended to be used after assembly.

TQ
 
06kicks said:
Hey guys, thanks for the response, but my motor has that port and should not need to be plugged. I have tried installing the o-ring from the pump to the sump(case) a couple of different ways several times now. I have placed the o-ring on the pump stub and I have tried placing the o-ring in the case first and then push the pump stub into it. Neither has gotten results. O-ring looks to be in good shape everytime I pull it out. No pinching, kinking, or tearing is present. I stuck my bore scope, a great tool to have for this project, down into the sump housing to look for any debris that might have been clogging the hole. There wasn't any to be found. It seems as though I have gotten to deep into this project and I am now chasing my tail. If you have any other ideas I would certainly welcome them.

THaaaaaNKS, 06kicks

P.S. I forgot to mention that my oil pressure is right at 32p.s.i.
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I've read elsewhere that you should always replace the O rings. Probably less than a buck. Even though your O ring looks good it may not be sealing properly. Did you try a new O ring?
 
TnGliding said:
Other than what Glider said you can drain the oil from the bottom of the crank case and tell if your sumping, the little plug in the bottom will come out, just put a piece of 2x4 under the kickstand and drain the oil after you've rode it about 15 minutes or so, don't let it idle much before you shut the engine down, now get a good clean pan or something to catch the oil in, take a riderite ratio cup and measure the amount of oil you have, should be between 4 to 6oz's, can be just a little more say 7, but if it's 10 or 12oz's your sumping, the oil pump o rings or the oil pump itself could be leaking back into the case, hope this helps.
When reinstalling the plug be careful, it is a pipe thread and you will not want to overtighten or it will bust the case, just snug it up, put a couple wraps of teflone tape or pipe sealent on the plug before install.
Click to expand...

Glidning, where would one find this plug? Picture would be very helpful. I have an 01 FHLTC. Thanks
 
I don't have a pic, but the plug is a flush fit Allen head, on the very bottom of the crankcase, straight under the crankshaft. Many suggest that this plug NOT be removed just to drain oil. Only a little comes out, and there is a possibility of
damaging the case as it has a strong thread lock compound on it.
 
How's that issue coming 06?
Did you check the order of gerators & washers in the pump? Are you getting oil up top? Are your breathers working right? Any oil coming out of them? What's your oil level in the pan when your engine temps are up?
You don't want to much oil in there & as stated, pump alignment is critical. If you're sure your plate is true & immaculate, another thing to check is all six holes for torqueing your plate up. All six have to be torqued (on the lighter side per manual) the same. I stripped the #1 hole once and it cost me a couple more trips into the cam chest.
 
Let me add here; All posts up to #13 are four years old. I answered a current question, but did not mean to revive the thread. :s
 
HD07FXD005.gif
This is a picture of what Breeze is talking about, The plug is number 1
 
I know the previous sumping posts are old but for any that open and read but for any DIY members that open the thread, I have a suggestion that will insure a good tight fit between the oil pump neck and the scavenge port.

I have taken to adding an o-ring at the "neck" of the oil pump where it fits into the scavenge port. I use the small o-ring that is used to seal the crankcase oil plug. I slip it on behind the main o-ring and this forces a good, tight fit at the scavenge port. I started doing this a few years back, just for good measure.
 
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