Which brakes do you use?

[geezer]

I seem to use the front brake more than the rear. Easier to change the front pads than the rear. :lolrolling

 

[Fritz]

Got ABS on the RG works best using both.The old shovelhead mostly front,my wife rides a Dyna lowrider uses only front.Trying to teach her to use both.

 

[01dynaglide]

If it is an emer stop I use both. If it is to just slow down a little of take a curve ect. I only use the rear.

 

[wolffman]

Rear most of the time. I'll go threw a few sets of rear brakes in the few months riding we have in WI. Front and rear when needing to stop on a quarter and give some change back. Front when Im slow rolling and have my feet off the boards incase I need to stop quick and catch the bike.

 

[JerryL]

A combination of both at a rate of about 70% front/ 30% back, pressure wise.

 

[Iceman24]

My normal reaction is to always use both...learned many moons ago during younger riding days. Just gotta control the skid(s)...for us non-ABS riders.

 

[stikman]

I will use both on every stop but tend to use the rear first it gives me more control stopping and then use the front the last little bit, both in emergency stops. ABS is the way to go.

 

[Mongo1958]

Do you usually use your front, rear, or a bit of both? I tend to use my front brakes more than my rear though I do use both at times. For sudden stops, ie. deer running out in front of my bike, I seem to generally reach for the front brakes 90% of the time. Tell me what you do in regular riding and stopping as well as emergency stopping. Thanks.

hb

Hi,

I use both in general braking and a panic stops. When I'm in a small space doing a very tight turn at very slow speeds, I apply the rear break. A little rear break and some clutch action gives me added control in a slow tight turn. Going down hill on a gravel drive way I only use the rear break.

 

[horizonchaser]

13. How good can you get at emergency braking?

In emergency stops, expert riders are capable of controlling a front wheel skid by releasing pressure on the front brake just enough to get that wheel turning again without actually letting the brake right off. This requires considerable sensitivity on the brakes and the only way you will gain this sort of sensitivity is to practice.



At the NZMSC higher level Megarider sessions, the way the instructors tell if the pupil has reached a suitable standard is whether they can hear the front tyre chattering as the tyre grips at the point of adhesion during emergency stops.

14. Is a bald tyre a liability when braking?

A treadless tyre will quite adequately handle braking stresses on a perfect road surface. The trouble is that perfect road surfaces are more than rare - they're virtually extinct. Tyre tread acts like a broom, sweeping debris, dirt, gravel and water etc off the road surface in order that the tyre can grip the road.



The tread on a sensibly ridden motorcycle can comfortably handle most foreign matter on a road surface - with the possible exception of oil (especially diesel oil), thick mud, and smooth wet paint. But link a bald tyre with foreign matter on the road surface and throw in braking stresses for good measure, and the crash will resound throughout the neighbourhood.

15. How should I brake on slippery and loose surfaces.

Carefully but not timidly. The secret to good braking on poor surfaces is observation. If you know what's under your wheels you can tailor your braking to the surface.



So, keep an eye on the road surface. If you cross a slippery surface under strong braking the front wheel may lock. This is why riders who brake late and hard for orange or red lights often spill off - into the middle of the intersection. The fall occurs because the rider fails to ease the front brake as the front wheel crosses the white line that crosses the lanes at the edge of the intersection. Then the front wheel breaks loose under braking on the slippery surface, the rider panics and freezes, and he and his bike head groundwards...



The basic requirements for braking on a loose surface such as gravel are the same as those applying to braking on a sealed surface. The difference is that you must observe the requirements more strictly on gravel.



You must brake in plenty of time, preferably brake while upright and in a straight line (any braking while leaned over in gravel is extremely hazardous), use both brakes very progressively, carefully interpret the noise from the front and rear tyre while braking to detect and counteract any wheel lock-up, know your road surface, and take particular care when braking on gradients, inclines, and heavy cambers.

Great info Steve. Thanks for passing it on!

 

[onepointman]

Some of the best braking information, including how to avoid "highsiding" from incorrect rear brake use, is analyzed, explained, demonstrated and practiced in the very best way when you sign up and take the advanced rider safety course offered by the AMA. I have taken the course every few years as a way to "fine tune" my riding skills. If you are a hog member, they rebate you about $50 of the cost and what you can discover in that class may save you or your passengers life... just sayin' )