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Winter Project! 1988 Sportster Basket Case :/

With the bike all stripped the first thing to do would be check the wiring and get all the eclectics working
I think that at the year of your bike the turn signal button had to be held in to make the turn signals work i think there are aftermarket kits to make it work better
Once the electrics are all working then test run the engine, fit the carb and i use a small bottle of fuel just to test run an engine with the tank off
When the engine is running check the charging system
then on to the brakes rebuild/replace any parts that are suspect
Hopefully that has given you a few days work to get on with
Let us know how things are going and i am sure more words of help and advise will get back to you on almost any problems or issues that you encounter

Brian
 
fin_676 said:
I think that at the year of your bike the turn signal button had to be held in to make the turn signals work
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip for the Turn signals ...indeed they work! I just have to hold the switch down.
Checked the Electrical and all lights work...high/low beam,brake, turn signals etc,
One thing I observed is that the engine light is on and doesn't go off...ideas?
When I got all the lights working I couldn't resist to hit the start switch...
All I could hear is a click or more like a little Tap Tap at the starter.... Is this a sign of something bad or I just need to add the carbs etc?
I'm going to tackle the Carb next... Since there are no hoses in the bike I don't really know what goes where..
I think the biggest fitting is for the fuel line from the tank ... It's that correct? I know the choke location...
I know which is the vacuum fitting ...but don't know where the line from there goes to.
There is a smaller fitting to the left of the biggest fitting/fuel line..... What is that one for and what does it connects to?
Lots of questions and haven't even start yet...
Thanks everyone
 
The engine light will be an oil pressure light which will not go off till the oil pressure is high enough You will need the engine to start for that
the click from the starter would indicate that there is not enough power to the starter either the battery is unable to supply enough power or the main cables for the battery are not carrying the load due to dirt/corrosion which can be on the ends or hidden under the sheathing of the cables
i am not 100% sure of the carb fitted to an 88 but i do think it was the first year of the cv carb if it is fuel inlet is just above the float bowl, bottom of the float bowl is the drain/overflow fitting, on the top is the vacuum which goes to the voes which should be mounted on the frame close to the top of the carb

Brian
 
Thanks Brian
All these things make absolute sense....
I guess what's is happening with me is not letting me focus .....I got lay-off sometime ago and I got the bike to keep me sane at the same time when I see "red lights on" keep thinking that perhaps I spent money I should have keep liquid.
Sorry I derailed I just had to vent a little of my drama.
 
Seeing as how the bike has been down so long and converted to a 1200 you might want to do the following. Once you have the motor ready to turn over and start, pull your spark plugs and oil filter. Or the return oil line to the oil tank. With a good battery crank the motor over until you see oil returning to the tank or coming out of the filter mount. Only crank on it for 30-45 second intervals. Let the starter cool some.You don't want the starter to get to Hot,feel it with your hand. Too Hot and you could burn it up. This will pre-lube the moving parts. I usually pre oil the rocker arm assy. and valve springs also while the top rocker box cover is off. Only 4 screws for that. Once you have good flow of oil you're ready to start it.
tourbox
 
Maustarman said:
Thanks Brian
All these things make absolute sense....
I guess what's is happening with me is not letting me focus .....I got lay-off sometime ago and I got the bike to keep me sane at the same time when I see "red lights on" keep thinking that perhaps I spent money I should have keep liquid.
Sorry I derailed I just had to vent a little of my drama.
Click to expand...

Look at it as potential return on investments. Careful parts shopping and assembly may enable you to turn a profit on the bike IF NECESSARY. Also the thinking and problem solving while working on the bike may keep you a little sharper.
 
Maustarman said:
Thanks Brian
All these things make absolute sense....
I guess what's is happening with me is not letting me focus .....I got lay-off sometime ago and I got the bike to keep me sane at the same time when I see "red lights on" keep thinking that perhaps I spent money I should have keep liquid.
Sorry I derailed I just had to vent a little of my drama.
Click to expand...

We all at sometime get too focused on the final outcome of a project and loose sight of the simple bits or try to make things too complex
So try to focus on one small part of the project at a time i find that when things get a wee bit confusing that if i take some time away from what i am doing and take the dog out for a good long trek it helps to clear the head and get things clear again
If you do have any further questions just ask and we will reply as soon as we are available
There are many very knowledgeable members on this site that are very willing to share their experience and knowledge and the only stupid question is the one in your head that you did not ask

Brian
 
OK....
Got electrical all work out...
Changed engine oil
Changed transmission oil
New battery and installed the carb

When I hit the start switch the engine cranks but really slowly... Like one turn every time I hit the switch and than nothing happens..... I let go and hit the switch again and the cycle repeats ...one turn sloooooooowwwly.

Ideas???

tourbox said:
Seeing as how the bike has been down so long and converted to a 1200 you might want to do the following. Once you have the motor ready to turn over and start, pull your spark plugs and oil filter. Or the return oil line to the oil tank. With a good battery crank the motor over until you see oil returning to the tank or coming out of the filter mount. Only crank on it for 30-45 second intervals. Let the starter cool some.You don't want the starter to get to Hot,feel it with your hand. Too Hot and you could burn it up. This will pre-lube the moving parts. I usually pre oil the rocker arm assy. and valve springs also while the top rocker box cover is off. Only 4 screws for that. Once you have good flow of oil you're ready to start it.
tourbox
Click to expand...

Turbox, Thanks for the tips
I did put a bit of oil in the rocker arm assy and the valve springs (question is how much should I put ? I used a couple of drops)
Took the spark plugs & the filter out and ran it as advised until the oil came out of the filter mount.
( I took advantage of the moment to check I have a good spark in both plugs :)
Now, as soon as I get the plugs bag in, it seems like the starter can't turn the engine... I have to hit the switch about 3 times to hear ONE turn. Took the plugs back off an it ran freely...
I'm using the recharged battery that came with it ... But I already order a new one... Supposed to arrive next week.
Any comments ?

Maurice
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Got your Pm. As far as the slow turning over with plugs in it I would suspect your old recharged battery to be the problem. After you put in the new Fully charged battery you will probably be fine. If not come back and let us know,more suggestions will come for that. As far as how much oil I put on the valves/springs, etc. I have a oil squirt can so I give several good squirts per head. Now that you have oil flowing you should be good for total oil pre lube. I'm sure you were glad to see the oil return and the spark. Not far now. Good luck with it, you are close to the end and a RIDE
tourbox
 
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