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the upgrade went just fine only thing that stumped us was the part about checking end play on the cams(i used the herko kit) lucky it was fine front cam .010 rear cam .011....what in the world would u do if you're end play checked .003? we didn't see a way to adjust it lol the 21n grind cams made the bike sound better i think....my test ride was short..5 miles...it was 20degrees this morning lol ...we did get lucky on the sprocket alignment first shim we tried put it dead on....HUGE thanks to this forum and all the people on it
 
Good for you and great the forum was there to back you up:s
 
I did the conversion a few years back and the info on this site was of great help. TQ did a bang up job of laying everything out. Big help. Just lay everything out ahead of time and kind of go through the job in your head before hand. You'll be fine.
 
Glad to hear that everything went smoothly. How was the wear on your tensioners and did you have any pitting on the cam ends, was there much lobe wear.
kemo
 
Hoople said:
Thanks TQ for the info. It's people like this that ruin it for all of us. I wish there was a way to know who the dirt bags were from the Good people out there before you make a kind gesture.
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I understand your point, but in this case I was OK with it. I gave him the option to keep the stuff and I would keep the hundred, or he could return it and I would send him back the money. Like I said, I guess he wanted to keep them. Hopefully he paid it forward and did the same thing with someone else needing the tools.

TQ
 
TQuentin1 said:
I understand your point, but in this case I was OK with it. I gave him the option to keep the stuff and I would keep the hundred, or he could return it and I would send him back the money. Like I said, I guess he wanted to keep them. Hopefully he paid it forward and did the same thing with someone else needing the tools.

TQ
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Giving him the option to purchase them puts a whole new light on the situation. That is not what it sounded like. For $100, I would have purchased them also.
 
Hoople said:
A Question maybe someone will know the answer to. When installing New inner cam bearings, if you use the Genuine or correct tool, it will install the bearings to the correct depth. I realize that the design of the bearing pilot will install the bearing to the proper depth.

Since I have never see the bearing pilot tool, my question is after the bearing is installed to the proper depth, is the bearing Flush with the casting or is it slightly BELOW the casting height?
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My reply to you Hoople...(PM)

Inside the rear side of the Cam bearing hole is a Cast-in ring stop Flange... So they Don't go in any further (too far)..

Hoople,

I have always Only gone in with the cage bearings Just like the picture shows TQ put for us to see... Flush Inside of the beveled taper is where I stop BUT I think it Can go a little More into the engine and stop at the Flange that is cast into the engine case but I like the bearing onto the cam ends as much as possible but with NO chance of rubbing on the cage end.. So I also stop INSIDE the bevel edge..

Hope that was clear enough....
Still shivering from the ride yesterday... Olympia Wa. Toy Run... Cool,,,COLD and sunny over 3000 bikes and WOW what FUN and glad to see such a turn out... Never had so many KIDS SLAPPING my leather hand out and smiling!!

What a REWARD !!!!!!!!!!!! :bigsmiley16:

signed....BUBBIE
 
tensioner pads had very very little wear no pitting on the cam journal,cam lobes i did not check lol now i try and treat my bike well no burn outs etc. but i do ride it and if i wanna open it up from time 2 time i do.i think the fact that i use fully syn oil and change it every 2k had allot to do with the pads having very little wear. i'm just glad i got the Hydraulic kit installed just for peace of mind. of yea those Andrews 21n grind cam make it hit a lick(that is southern slang for sounds good lol) TQ/KEMO what one do if the end play is no good when using the herko kit? like i said mine checked fine,my indy mech and myself just wondered what u do if its out of spec?send the kit back 2 andrews and let them machine on the camplate and fix the endplay? oh yea bike has 23k on it
 
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HOLY DIVER said:
tensioner pads had very very little wear no pitting on the cam journal,cam lobes i did not check lol now i try and treat my bike well no burn outs etc. but i do ride it and if i wanna open it up from time 2 time i do.i think the fact that i use fully syn oil and change it every 2k had allot to do with the pads having very little wear. i'm just glad i got the Hydraulic kit installed just for peace of mind. of yea those Andrews 21n grind cam make it hit a lick(that is southern slang for sounds good lol) TQ/KEMO what one do if the end play is no good when using the herko kit? like i said mine checked fine,my indy mech and myself just wondered what u do if its out of spec?send the kit back 2 andrews and let them machine on the camplate and fix the endplay? oh yea bike has 23k on it
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I think you will find that the distance from INSIDE Cam plate to the engine bearing surfaces were ALL taken into the "Thought" tolerances when Cast-Machined so no problems with the small clearances of end play..(one cam held tight by Gear and other held in place by connecting chain)
IF your after market cams were Manufactured properly they will work good without any problems....

I have used a Machined Grade 8 big washer to machine down on my 1997 EVO motor Cam clearances but never needed anything on the twin-cams...

signed....BUBBIE

You would Not change the cam-plate YOU Could machine the cam IF NEEDED..
 
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