I've yet to hear from anyone that can explain how one setting affects both idle and 2000 RPM's. So if you can elaborate I'm all ears. I'd love to hear your explanation.
Obviously you don't have any concept of the workings of the various sensors on the FI bikes and how they function. Do some research and find out. As far as the setting of the idle at 1800, it's the low speed setting done on the #1 pot that handles that. The 1800 RPM is used for setting so you can hear the tone of the bike when adjusting the pot which sets the fuel for low speeds as well as idle fuel too.
Green Fuel Pot: (functions like a fuel mixture screw on a carburetor)
Adjusts for the motorcycle's fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through legal highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm set pot. We have found that manufacturers have generally leaned out the fuel mixtures for emissions to a specific rpm (see below). To set this pot, make sure the motorcycle is up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast idle that is not easy to hold a steady rpm (V-twins 1800-2200 rpm and multiple cylinders 2500-3000 rpm), hold the throttle at that spot and then slowly and evenly turn the green pot clockwise from its minimum setting, while listening to the exhaust sound. You should hear the exhaust sound change form an irregular and uneven sound to an even and smooth one. You may also see an increase in rpm as you increase fuel, and if you continue to increase fuel past this point to where the revs start to fall back away, then you can stop and start returning the pot screw back to a point half way between where the exhaust note first smoothed out and the point where the highest rpm starts to fall away.
Yellow Fuel Pot: (functions like an accelerator pump)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel into the fuel map whenever the throttle is opened rapidly. This pot needs to be adjusted from test riding, by performing brisk roll-ons in a specific gear, and by always starting at the exact same rpm. Try one clock position increases between roll-on tests until you can't feel any more improvement, and then go back to the last setting that improvement was noticed. Some models won't require as much fuel as others, so while increasing the yellow by one clock position increments if the motorcycle starts to decrease in throttle response, then turn the yellow back one and a half clock positions
Red Fuel Pot: (functions like a main jet on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel under large load conditions and is generally required when either air intake or quality exhaust system changes occur. This addition happens automatically using our unique load sensing technology, and similar to the road test procedure listed above in yellow fuel, test riding while increasing red fuel will find an optimum setting.
RPM Switch Pot:
All (except Harley/Metric V-twins) Sets the rpm that the green fuel turns off. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to 4:30 o'clock for 600cc and above multi cylinder sport bikes. Each clock position of this pot equates to about 1000 rpm's, so 4,500 rpm's would be half way between 4 and 5 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green light to go out at the chosen rpm.
All Harley and Metric V-twins Sets the rpm that the green and yellow fuel turns off and the red (main jet) turns on. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to about 70% of redline (for example a Harley-Davidson Roadking redline is 5800 rpm and 4000 is 70% of redline) which would be 4:00 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green and yellow light to go out at the chosen rpm.
