00-03 HD Codes And Activation

[dannyag]

Dan

The only way out of this is to find what is causing the voltage loss. My guess would be a bared or grounded wire somewhere on the bike. The poor running could also as a result of low voltage due to the grounded wire and the ECM needs 9 volts or better to run the bike properly. Try running it without the security fuse in and see what you get then.

There's the option of replacing the TSSM with a TSM to eliminate the problem but the wires may still be causing the problems so short of finding the problem, it's only throwing money at the bike.

Glider,
Thanks much for your info. To date, we replaced the TSSM and re-prgrammed the pager/security system. The battery is now functional and doesn't die any longer. However, the thought of the voltage being the cause of the "sputtering" and "Seeming like the fuel just ran out" was not the case. The bike just acted like the fuel ran out again and wouldn't start right back up. It took a couple cranks but it started again.

This doesn't happen when I'm on the highway cruising. Only when moving slowly around town. Also, I'm pretty certain that I have a historical code because when the light/ign is turned on, the "Check engine" light comes on briefly and then when I crank it and it starts, it comes on again for 8 seconds exactly and then goes off.

I'm thinking this may also be a separate problem since it is a historic code and shouldn't give me a code reflecting the "sputtering" problem.

Any ideas? Anyone?


Dan

 

[glider.]

Your light on indicates a stored code which may tell you where to look for the sputtering problem too.

 

[dannyag]

Oh well, looks like I'm out of commission now. I really did it this time. I tried to make a wire bridge for the data link connection that stayed put. I held it there by hand and actually got the Check Engine light to flash but I couldn't read it correctly because I missed a few flashes.

I went to place the wire bridge I had made across pins One and Two so I could start from scratch and I forgot to turn off the ignition switch. Sparks came from the data-link cable and now I'm getting NOTHING. No check engine light or security light and the bike is dead. Guess I fried the computer.

 

[glider.]

Check the fuses, doubt you fried the ECM

I use a female crimp on spade end terminal, they fit just fine to the two terminals in the plug, you may have to squeeze the wings down on the terminal a bit for a snug fit.

One of these with the blue covering (14 gauge)

 

[dannyag]

Check the fuses, doubt you fried the ECM

I use a female crimp on spade end terminal, they fit just fine to the two terminals in the plug, you may have to squeeze the wings down on the terminal a bit for a snug fit.

One of these with the blue covering (14 gauge)

Glider,
Sorry for the long delay man.

Here's the current situation. You were right.....I didn't fry the computer. I burned the ignition fuse thank god!

Anyway, I got the codes off of there today from my friend doing the actual Hands on work for me with my help, of course.....they are as follows

63, 14, 99. They repeated several times so those are definitely the codes that are stored in there. The 14 is the one that's scaring me because I'm not sure what to make of it. The 99 is obviously from the TSSM replacement last weekend. Not sure about the 63 either. However, we did 50 starts and runs last night and the codes were not cleared.

I'm probably gonna need a new ECM, right?


D

 

[glider.]

I hope you are using the proper number in the list. The #14 should be ET sensor (engine temp) The numbers in the list in the left column are just reference numbers for the list. There are 108 entries in the list.

 

[dannyag]

I hope you are using the proper number in the list. The #14 should be ET sensor (engine temp) The numbers in the list in the left column are just reference numbers for the list. There are 108 entries in the list.

Glider, (and everyone else)

Finally, FINALLY got it. It WAS the Engine Temp Sensor. It's a bit of a long story but I'll detail it as briefly as possible. My friend ordered the "Twin-scan II" from daytona sensors. We hooked it up, cleared the codes and the ETS threw another code. We tested the sensor while IN the bike and it showed open/high. We removed the ETS, heated it up with a torch and tested it and it seemed to be OK. The HD dealer didn't have one in stock so we just put back the old one so I could get home. BUT........something else had to be going on because it's working flawlessly now. Don't know if the wire connection was bad, heating it up had anything to do with it, or clearing the codes after the removal. But either way, I'm waiting on a new sensor just to be on the safe side. In the meantime, no more codes are being thrown and again, the FLSTSI is running flawlessly! Thanks for all your help, guys! I sincerely appreciate it!


Dan:bigsmiley11:

 

[glider.]

Dan

Glad you got a handle on it. It's very possible there's a break in the wire under the insulation on the sensor. Even could have been a bad connection too.

 

[bighead45]

Hello.

I am pretty much in the same position. I have a check engine light but when I perform the diagnostic I don't get any codes. I understand this means a problem isn't present and the code is a historical code, but how do I get the historical codes? The problem doesn't happen often and the bike doesn't hesitate or cough when the light comes on during a ride, it is just annoying. I would like to make sure everything is running nicely before I take a long trip.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[glider.]

Jeff

The light on constantly is a current code (happening now) and when it goes off, the code should still be stored as a historic code and you should still be able to retrieve it with the procedure above.