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1999 Road King - I feel sick to my stomach

I don't want to rain on your parade, but, since you now know the pump quit supplying oil entirely, I would expect that the least you will need is a new top end (pistons, jugs, heads, etc.). I hope for the best for you, and want to be wrong. I just don't want you floored out of the blue with the potential needs here.

Good luck,
Rich P
 
I have to side with Rich here an Knowing it Needs to be torn down to look BUT the oil pump issue First as to remove it Might show that the crank Is Not rebuildable, Big problem and the crank condition and then Run-out will determine a lot..

Let us know as soon as you get the pump off and IF scored badly on the crank???
****************

If We are Lucky here it may take a build and give you back a good motor... There are other options like a Remanufacture by HD... More on that later..

signed....BUBBIE
 
rking_99 said:
Have the pump off now, used a gear pulley remover for the job. Will check the crank runout tomorrow.
Click to expand...

What did the crank surface look like where it runs in the oil pump?

How much force was needed? wondered also IF it was the gear binding or the pump housing stuck-on at the crank.??

signed....BUBBIE
 
BUBBIE said:
What did the crank surface look like where it runs in the oil pump?

How much force was needed? wondered also IF it was the gear binding or the pump housing stuck-on at the crank.??

signed....BUBBIE
Click to expand...

Crank surface for the oil pump has no issues at all, looks very good. From the looks of the gears after removal, the gear were binding and get stuck on the crank. Not much force, but could not remove by hand. Will have a dial indicator on it tonight to check crank run out. If all is good, we go and buy the following items until I can afford the upgraded version for the pump, plate, and tensioners:

Adjustable pushrods
Stock Oil Pump Assembly - Ebay $40
Baisley Spring
Torrington Bearings
Roll Pin Support Plate
Gaskets, o rings, filters, and oil.

:D

================================================

It seems needless to purchase a cam bearing remover / installer for two bearings, anyone willing to rent theirs will I replace bearings with Torringtons? I can send payment via PayPal. Let me know, thanks.
 
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Crank runout at the end near where the crank sprocket attaches - .0004. Where the pump gears ride, couldnt be any better 0.0001

These numbers sound good, bad, decent? Proceed with pump install and see what happens?

rking_99 said:
Crank runout at the end near where the crank sprocket attaches - .0004. Where the pump gears ride, couldnt be any better 0.0001

These numbers sound good, bad, decent? Proceed with pump install and see what happens?
Click to expand...

================================================

Correction, one too many zero....... .004 / .001
 
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HDDon said:
I believe your crank is within specs, take a look here:
Harley Davidson Community
Click to expand...

For me without looking , I would say good enough for the TC with the gerotor pump.. Just allow the motor to turn over when you install and for aligning new pump.. so the pump finds its own high and low spots then tighten a little at a time like the book says.. 35/40 inch lbs, then finish off at 120 inch lbs doing the proper 4 bolt tightening pattern.. (plugs out and turning engine over in 4/5 gear, aligns the crankshaft run-out to pump)... Keeping all happy:D

signed....BUBBIE

added.... IF Mine, I would install a New oil pump and put it together and TRY....
 
Limey, still has the ball race and already has been changed. Thanks.

Now, I have a question concerning the pump. I pulled from the bike 26290 99, purchased on Ebay 99B. I believe this is the third generation and will fit the existing cam plate. Question on assembly. First in Gear Set, spacer, ring, spacer, Gear Set. Does this sound right?

Mine did not thave the sping or 2nd spacer.
 
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