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Jack Klarich
Guest
EFI Fuel Line Removal - Harley Davidson Community This may help no petcock to shut off on these bikes, you will need to un plug the wire harness on the speedo for sure
400 miles and the finish has deteriorated on my Street Bob
- Thread starter Admiral Nelson
- Start date
EFI Fuel Line Removal - Harley Davidson Community This may help no petcock to shut off on these bikes, you will need to un plug the wire harness on the speedo for sure
R_W_B
Senior Member
Excellent info. In Florida we have another issue that destroys the lacquer finish besides stones. They are called Love Bugs and they come in swarms twice a year.
If you are just putting on the 2inch tank lift you only have to remove the front tank bolt. Some folks (like me) had to remove the speedo console to manuver enough slack in the wires to raise the tank. My problem was my fuel vent line was not long enough. I had to go buy a longer one at the hardware store.
If you want to remove the tank, yes first remove the fuel pump fuse. Remove speedo (disconnect all electrical connectors and set speedo aside somewhere). Then get a towel and wrap around the disconect on the fuel line coming out of the left rear bottom of the tank. The push up on the connector and pull down on the bottom half. It will spray fuel into the towel for just a second. Then on the left bottom of tank up towards the front there is the fuel gauge electrical connector. Separate it. Then comes the really awkward part. I always siphon or pump my tank as empty as I can get it. Put a dry towel over your rocker covers. Then I get two of those big clear rubber flex tubes (like you see at Home Cheapo) about 1" diameter, about 3ft long. I get a gas can and stick the bottom of these 2 flex tubes in the can. If they won't stay in use duct tape. Then loosen the clamp on one side of the tank crossover hose. Grab the other ends of the 2 rubber flex tubes in you left hand and then with your right hand remove the one end of the crossover hose. Quickly (since gas is pouring out onto the towel) stick the open end of the crossover hose in one of the flex tubes and stick the other flex tube over the exposed tank bibb. Hold while fuel drains. Then you can remove tank.
Iceman did a black ceramic coat on his pipes, may want to check it out...:s
http://www.hdtimeline.com/engine_fuel_and_exhaust/26591-ceramic_coated_exhaust_on_sg.html
http://www.hdtimeline.com/engine_fuel_and_exhaust/26591-ceramic_coated_exhaust_on_sg.html
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Jack Klarich
Guest
Surprisingly, powder coat will hold up on the rocker boxes quite well as long as they are prepped right but exhaust is another can of worms better go with ceramic. I did white powder coat on an old Iron head Sporster for my youngest brother years ago and it worked out nice, made that Sportie look like the Softail Nostalgia The one they called the Cow Glide:rider
R_W_B
Senior Member
Forgot to say remove neg battery cable first before any electrical work, but that goes without saying almost. Next time I remove my tank I gonna see how the plastic 2 litter bottle oil filter funnel will work with gas. That would just about totally remove the messy part.
That is interesting. Sometimes contrast colors can look even better.
Admiral Nelson
Banned
Seems like really hard work to remove the gas tank. Undid the front bolt, pulled the tank up 2", held in place with a bit of softwood and polished away.
R_W_B
Senior Member
Oh yea if you just want to polish the rockers you don't have to remove the tank. I misunderstood that you wanted to remove the tank. You will love the tank lift for more reasons than just polishing though if you get one. I can see my speedo better with a tank lift, as well as access wiring under tank better, and I think it makes the bike look better.
Admiral Nelson
Banned
I will get the tank lift ordered this week. I just wish the postage wasn't nearly as much as the part lol.....
R_W_B
Senior Member
If you search around you might could find one made closer to your area.
Also some folks make their own from flat strap. Actually the only part that is somewhat difficult is that the tank slides in between the OEM bolt hole brackets. So obviously you have an offset involved in the equation. And since the tank bracket is solid you have to offset from the outside.
The simpliest way around this is to use stainless washers at the tank mount with a longer stainless bolt (acorn head if you can find it).
Or if you have access to a friend with a welder, you can just weld an offset into your bracket (which how most lifts are made) and you are good to go. Sand and paint. Or if you use aluminum sand thru all the grits and then polish.
MTM (the one I bought) makes their lifts out of one solid billet piece of aluminum. A very sturdy mount, but I am thinking of cutting a section out of the bottom so as to route my cables under it instead of having to go over top of it.