Mongo1958
Junior Member
How can we tell or detect the signs of wear?until such time as the top end starting showing signs of wear,
Good luck with your project.
96 to 103 stage 2 conversion
- Thread starter tubguy
- Start date
Mikvi
Member
I used these Guys for an upgrade. They put the whole package together. Bore, pistons, cams with gear conversion, ported heads, quick-e push-rods, lifters, all gaskets was approx $2200.00. I used a Cobra FI 2000 pro fuel tuner. http://www.amsmotomachine.com/index.php/top-harley-parts
Mongo1958
Junior Member
Hmm...I wonder why? Any way. I hold your advice as gospel. You Da Man!and a proper dyno tune.
The 48 cams are a good choice but the OP pulls a trailer which is why the 48 was not included with the TTS100 and SE255. No trailer and the 48 is in play.
dolt
Well-Known Member
The 48 cams are lacking the really low end torque of either the TTS100 or SE255 which I think would help with the trailer pull. Don't misunderstand, the 48 cams will work as well but just think the TTS100/SE255 will have a bit more off idle. The 48 cams will run the TQ out further than the other two but I don't think the OP is looking for that.
Compression and leak down testing. A good reason to perform both tests on a fresh top end so you have a baseline for future comparison...........
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Mongo1958
Junior Member
Is that an expensive test to do?
True Dat! The 255 is very boo koo at low RPM.The 48 cams are lacking the really low end torque of either the TTS100 or SE255 which I think would help with the trailer pull. Don't misunderstand, the 48 cams will work as well but just think the TTS100/SE255 will have a bit more off idle. The 48 cams will run the TQ out further than the other two but I don't think the OP is looking for that.
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tubguy
Active Member
I appreciate all the input. I'm thinking I'd like to try the TTS 100 cams. Because I'm in Canada, what supplier would be best for me. And for adjustable pushrods what would be suggested and I was also thinking of replacing cam bearings too. I'm thinking I'll be doing the upgrade, I do everything else on the bike so this can't be that bad. Just need to find a bearing puller.
Mongo thanks for letting me know. Did you do the install or get a tech to do it. Dolt had mentioned the TTS100 cams. I'm thinking I'd give that a go with a set of new headers like he also suggested. My only issue is getting the product because I'm in Canada.
Dolt I'd like to personally thank you for spending the time and writing such a detailed description. I've researched and looked at everything you've mentioned. One question I have is what type of pushrods would you suggest. I have stock now so probably wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade to adjustable. Your thoughts? Oh and who supplies the tts100 cams
Mongo thanks for letting me know. Did you do the install or get a tech to do it. Dolt had mentioned the TTS100 cams. I'm thinking I'd give that a go with a set of new headers like he also suggested. My only issue is getting the product because I'm in Canada.
If that is your goal, a cam upgrade is all you need; no need to go to 103". Two cams come to mind, the TTS100 or the SE255; both are torque cams and will deliver torque off idle to about 4500rpms with a good tune. Inner cam bearings should be upgraded to Torrington/Timken B-168s as part of the cam change. The 2010 models still ran the -99B lifters which were subsequently replaced by the -99C lifters; -99B lifters are good; -99C lifters has problems. If your valve train is quiet, your lifters don't need to be replaced; however with the current mileage and a performance cam, it would be worth the $125 or so to replace them with a set of S&S standard lifters.
As for the cams, the TTS100 is fairly new and is a torque monster; IMHO, perfect for your application. If you were to install the TTS100, I suggest that you consider the TTS Mastertune for fuel management over the SEPST. I am sure there is map in the TTS catalog that closely matches your configuration with their cam which you could run until you get the motor dyno tuned which you should do. Check the cam chain tensioner wear while in the cam chest and replace if they show abnormal wear.
There are a couple other changes you could make if of a mind and budget allows. Replacing the 32T transmission pulley with a 31T or 30T will help the low end. No belt change with the 31T but the 30T might require a belt change; some get by with the OEM belt, others have to replace it.
Replacing the OEM head pipe with the V&H Power Dual head pipe would also help overall performance and replacing the standard baffle with the "quiet" baffle will help the low end but I don't know why it is called the quiet baffle.
So, to summarize, you can achieve your goal with a cam upgrade, new fuel management system and dyno tune. The cost will slightly exceed your current projected cost per my previous post but you will be happy with the results. If, after making the changes, you still feel the need for more low end power, boring to 103" is still an option as well the trans pulley change and exhaust upgrade; however, as long as your top end is tight, I would forego the 103" option until such time as the top end starting showing signs of wear, unless money is just burning a hole in your pocket.............
Good luck with your project.
Dolt I'd like to personally thank you for spending the time and writing such a detailed description. I've researched and looked at everything you've mentioned. One question I have is what type of pushrods would you suggest. I have stock now so probably wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade to adjustable. Your thoughts? Oh and who supplies the tts100 cams
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Mongo1958
Junior Member
TG,
Oh no...
I did not do the cam install. I felt that it was beyond my ability at this time. I have taken the Primary apart and changed tires, but that's about it. If Dolt says the TTS100 is good, then it's good. I almost never get the bike above 5K RPM but Ill cruise a 3K RPM (Almost 80 MPH) all day. I usually do that on the super slabs to keep up with traffic. If I need to pass I don't need to down shift, just roll on the throttle. If it is like the SE255 then you'll love it. You can pick up a used SE255 cheap these days. Lots of people remove them out of new bikes with only a few thousand miles on them. $100 is not out of the question for a used set. What ever you desire will work great for you. Please keep us posted on your bike and how well it works out for you.
PS: I burned rubber by accident a couple of times because I was not use to the new clutch and heavy duty clutch spring that I installed.
Amazon has a inner bearing installer/remover for 104. U. S. dollars made by Heartland Products. Just make sure you get the right one. They have one for 06 and earlier and one for 07 and later. Also on you tube J&P cycles has an excellent video that shows you how to do cam replacement and pushrod adjustment.
If your changing cams you'll definitely want to change bearings.