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Adjusting Pushrods

coopernicus said:
Ok bear with me guys....I read that you want to find tdc on the comp. stroke . on the cyl. that you want to adjust . Then I read to adjust those pr's. After reading that, I read after finding tdc on comp. stroke let bleed down before adjusting. So do I let bleed down before adj. and after adjusting? Thanks for your patience and help.
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Find TDC on compression stroke, adjust and let bleed down "before adjusting the next set". When the first adjusted pushrods have bled down sufficiently so that you can rotate the pushrod between your fingers, you are ready to move on to find TDC on the next cylinder and adjust those.:s
 
coopernicus said:
Ok bear with me guys....I read that you want to find tdc on the comp. stroke . on the cyl. that you want to adjust . Then I read to adjust those pr's. After reading that, I read after finding tdc on comp. stroke let bleed down before adjusting. So do I let bleed down before adj. and after adjusting? Thanks for your patience and help.
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The way I do it, is to disconnect the battery, collapse and remove the PRs completely from the bike - both cylinders. Mark the PRs so you know which cylinder they came from an make sure you know which was exhaust and which was intake (usually different lengths).

Then find the TDC on the compression stroke for the cylinder you want to start with. To do this, jack the rear tire off the ground, put the tranny in fifth gear and remove the spark plugs. Turn the engine over by rotating the rear tire (in the direction of forward travel). Watch the lifters rise and fall until you see the exhaust open-close, intake open-closing (opening is when the lifter goes up - closing it goes back down). The next time the piston for the cylinder you are doing is at the top of its stroke is TDC compression on that cylinder.

Install and adjust both PRs for that cylinder (see lots of other discussions about how much to adjust). Go have lunch or a beer and then check the PRs to make sure you can easily rotate them with thumb and index. Button up the PR covers.

Do the other cylinder by using the same process as above for that one.

Rotate the tire and listen for any warning sounds from the engine. If OK, reconnect the battery and rotate the engine using the starter for about 30 seconds. You are again listening for warning sounds from the engine. If you hear any, stop and find out what is wrong BEFORE proceeding.

Reinstall sparkplugs, put the seat back on and fire it up. Back it out!!

Cheers,

TQ
 
coopernicus said:
Thank youJack, Dolt and TQ! :toungeThis has been driving me crazy.....I GOT IT:D Thanks to all.
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Just as added insurance you have the piston on the compression stroke, you can hold your finger over the spark plug hole and feel the compression. Many get lost in watching the lifters go up and down and can end up adjusting the pushrods with the cams in the overlap position which can be bad juju.:D

The ultimate goal of having the piston at TDC on the compression stroke is to insure that the lifters are on the base circle or the "heel" of the cam lobe. If you happen to have the cam cover off while you are adjusting the pushrods, you can, with the assistance of a pen light, peek in and see the lifter position on the cam lobe.:s

dolt said:
Just as added insurance that you have the piston on the compression stroke, you can hold your finger over the spark plug hole and feel the compression. Many get lost in watching the lifters go up and down and can end up adjusting the pushrods with the cams in the overlap position which can be bad juju.:D

The ultimate goal of having the piston at TDC on the compression stroke is to insure that the lifters are on the base circle or the "heel" of the cam lobe. If you happen to have the cam cover off while you are adjusting the pushrods, you can, with the assistance of a pen light, peek in and see the lifter position on the cam lobe.:s
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BTW, the piston doesn't have to be precisely at TDC; a little before and after is OK.:)
 
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ok thanks again. so when the other cyl. that you are not working on is in overlap, you are on base circle. I'm not doing this till later, closer to spring. Just wanted to get my ducks in a row and build my confidence a little. Feeling much better about it now and guess it's just like anything else, once you just do it you wonder why you stressed so much about it.:small3d006:
 
0404hb_cam01_z.jpg

If you look at this picture you will clearly see the base circle of the cams
 
We load any .200" travel plunger to .140-.150" to maintain quiet engine operation at the engine's full thermal expansion.
S&S lifters are the prefered units.:)
 
I did that project back in march and everything turned out right. I put about 3000 on them and all is good! Still smiling:D
 
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