Another Compensator Installation Question

[geezer]

On my Heritage I didn't have to remove the clutch. The chain was long enough to slip over the compensator sprocket so I left the clutch alone.

 

[HardyHarHarley]

Same here.....I"m removing my Comp this weekend. I noticed there was plenty of slack in the chain where the Comp Sprocket just slipped off with chain; once of the shaft, I removed the sprocket and layed the chain inside the inner. This was after removing the tensioner of course. I haven't put it back together yet though. I was unable to remove the Comp due to lack of clearance. That's what brought me to this thread. I don't know whether to try to loosen the inner casing or try to grind the lip down.

Jim

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

Same here.....I"m removing my Comp this weekend. I noticed there was plenty of slack in the chain where the Comp Sprocket just slipped off with chain; once of the shaft, I removed the sprocket and layed the chain inside the inner. This was after removing the tensioner of course. I haven't put it back together yet though. I was unable to remove the Comp due to lack of clearance. That's what brought me to this thread. I don't know whether to try to loosen the inner casing or try to grind the lip down.

Jim

Either way works. Grinding the lip just enough to get the comp out is probably quicker and easier but some folks just have an aversion to doing this to their baby!!!

 

[trvlr]

Hey Doc - quick question. When you did your comp install, do you recall what color the loctite patch was that was on your new compensator bolt that came with the kit?

 

[PigSnot]

Either way works. Grinding the lip just enough to get the comp out is probably quicker and easier but some folks just have an aversion to doing this to their baby!!!

I chose to grind when I did mine, mainly to avoid a potential leak or seepage if not replacing the inner gaskets. I’ve come to believe the gasket would still be good and seal properly, especially on newer bikes. The outer primary gasket on mine was still like new still, but did replace it as I had bought a new one already. Gaskets seem to be getting better all the time.
Also, I tapped the holes in the rotor for ease of future removal without special tools, just screw in a bolt. Wrap packing tape around the magnets on the inside of the rotor where the tap burrs will collect!

Hey Doc - quick question. When you did your comp install, do you recall what color the loctite patch was that was on your new compensator bolt that came with the kit?

Mine was yellow. Hoople did his recently as well I believe. Wonder if that's what's on the bolts now, and what strenght that would be?

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Are you kidding!?! This was my third time into a primary AND I had the benefit of your advice (along with Amanda's assistance)! :s

If you loosen the 5 bolts on the inner primary (1/4" or so), then you are able to slightly shift/tilt the inner primary enough for the rotor to be removed and installed without the need to "grind" or alter anything.

Good job Dr.D and for inspiring JDPEagle to do the deed with the benefit of your experience...there are a lot of smiling riders here at HDT hearing your success stories. :cheers:cheers

 

[trvlr]

Mine was yellow. Hoople did his recently as well I believe. Wonder if that's what's on the bolts now, and what strenght that would be?

Well another yellow, that must be what they're using on these comp kits. Was just curious if there was a variance on what is being used on these bolts on these SE kits. Took a while to find what I think this is, but guessing its Dri-loc 201 formula, which reads to be a high strength fastener. I'll take that over the blue. Thanks for the response PigSnot -


Loctite 201 Dri-Loc Threadlocker

Loctite® 201™ Dri-Loc® Threadlocker is a dry-to-the-touch, preapplied fill for threaded fasteners. It remains inert on the fastener until assembly of the threads releases a quick curing resin. The resin fills all the voids in the threads and cures to securely lock and seal the assembly. A high temperature (400ºF), high strength threadlocker and sealant able to be used on plated parts and organic coatings. Use with Loctite P-3™ caps. Meets GM 6194 and GMW14657C specifications.


Bradley Group Coatings - Loctite Dri-Loc 201 Yellow


Loctite 201 Dri-Loc - Henkel

 

[FLST]

Figured I'd give this thread some closure - I'm sure you're all sitting on pins and needles waiting to see how my project ended up, right?

:lolrolling

The day before leaving for a 3 day mini vacation to NYC with my wife, I put the primary cover back on after adjusting the clutch. Refilled with new primary fluid. Reconnected battery. Seat back on. Sat down and was ready to start her up and then.....I had a thought. I said to myself, "What if this thing doesn't start or even worse, starts and begins to make a horrible noise?" I knew I wouldn't have time to do any troubleshooting and I knew it would put me in a really sour mood for the trip to New York. Not wanting to endanger a trip my wife was REALLY looking forward to, I took my thumb off the start switch and went inside to pack.

New York was a blast.

Happy to report that Thursday night I went out and finally started the bike. Started and ran fine. Friday I reattached the remaining items I had taken off to get the primary cover off. This morning, I went for a 4 hour ride with JDPEagle and AJPanda and had a wonderful, trouble free ride!

I know I need to work on my self confidence when it comes to mechanical work. As of today, I feel a lot better about my ability to handle most mods and/or repairs on my bike.

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice or simply encouragement as I worked through this project!

:cheers

Wow! What self control by not attempting a start. I don't think I could have waited, but then, I'm single. LOL.