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Broken Exhaust Bolt

harleyd72 said:
The stud broke off too far in the head to weld anything too.

Been drilling and grinding at it for 3 days now, could the heat from the exhaust over the last 5 years have hardened the stud? I had to have gone through the easy out out material by now.

Still don't want to but I'm pretty close to pulling the head...
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Let me know what worked when you resolve your problem.

Good Luck, Old Mike
 
I don't want to ruin your holidays but it seems like it is time to bite the bullet. Before you make it impossible to repair and end up buying new heads, take it apart and have a pro take care of the problem. JMHO, Don
 
HDDon said:
I don't want to ruin your holidays but it seems like it is time to bite the bullet. Before you make it impossible to repair and end up buying new heads, take it apart and have a pro take care of the problem. JMHO, Don
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Just picked up a set of diamond coated bits, if these don't cut it, I'm throwing in the towel.

I've checked the manual but it just goes over the dis-assembly procedures, anyone know if there is an issue with removing the head leaving the valve train and breather assembly in place?
 
harleyd72 said:
Just picked up a set of diamond coated bits, if these don't cut it, I'm throwing in the towel.

I've checked the manual but it just goes over the dis-assembly procedures, anyone know if there is an issue with removing the head leaving the valve train and breather assembly in place?
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Removing the head will not be a problem, mark the push rods so you put them back in the right holes and follow the torque values with new gaskets, remember to follow the manual on installing the push rods so they bleed the tappets down, dont want to bend a valve
 
Well, I removed the stuck piece of easy out but I can't drill in straight enough to clear out the hole and re-tap it.

Threw in the towel, heads coming off. Thanks for the help guys.
 
harleyd72 said:
Well, I removed the stuck piece of easy out but I can't drill in straight enough to clear out the hole and re-tap it.

Threw in the towel, heads coming off. Thanks for the help guys.
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Bolt the flange back on square to use as a drill guide. If you can use he other stud and get it on square
 
When you take it to whoever is going to remove the broken stud, take the flange with it so they can measure and get the proper spacing. Set up in a milling machine the shop can sweep the exhaust port to make sure it is flat and can use the measurement from the flange to get the proper position to remove the broken stud. Done correctly they should be able to remove the center of the stud to the minor diameter of the threads and than peel the remaining threads from the head.
 
An old Navy trick...oil of wintergreen as a penetrant for anything that even resembles being seized. If you break of a stud and know a dentist, old used dental drill bits on a high speed dremel can be used to remove the majority of a broken off stud with no thread damage. Talk to your dentist. They are a great addition to your tool box. Can't beat the price either... FREE!


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