Cam Chain Tensioners, How Do They Look?

[propflux01]

The bike has 18K on it.

I do plan on some kind of upgrade, of which I will do myself, however my biggest dilemma is which way to go. I'd love the perfect world of cheap and reliable, but from the many postings on here, the tech pages, and lots of google, I get differing opinions on the best way to go for the cheapest cost. From even reading on this post if I want to just change tensioner a to buy time I have to remove pushrods and change inner bearings it seems.

I do hate the prospect of paying $1000 plus for a gear drive setup, or spending $500 on an SE plate, just to have the same tensioner setup on the inboard chain and all the other stuff that has to be purchased separately. I am just hoping that the tensioners currently installed will hold off long enough for me to go rob a few banks to fix something that HD should not have even let happen in the first place.

 

[llharr]

The bike has 18K on it.

I do plan on some kind of upgrade, of which I will do myself, however my biggest dilemma is which way to go. I'd love the perfect world of cheap and reliable, but from the many postings on here, the tech pages, and lots of google, I get differing opinions on the best way to go for the cheapest cost. From even reading on this post if I want to just change tensioner a to buy time I have to remove pushrods and change inner bearings it seems.

I do hate the prospect of paying $1000 plus for a gear drive setup, or spending $500 on an SE plate, just to have the same tensioner setup on the inboard chain and all the other stuff that has to be purchased separately. I am just hoping that the tensioners currently installed will hold off long enough for me to go rob a few banks to fix something that HD should not have even let happen in the first place.

Keep the same set up is the cheapest way. The wear on the outer looks good but you need to get a dental mirror and a long screwdriver to lift up the inner shoe to inspect the wear.
I changed mine at 29,000 miles and my old shoes were almost half way thru with the inner one with the most wear.
Just inspect the tensioners ever few thousand miles for peace of mine. JMO

 

[TQuentin1]

From even reading on this post if I want to just change tensioner a to buy time I have to remove pushrods and change inner bearings it seems.

You do have to take the plate out to replace the inner tensioner, so you will have to either remove the pushrods from the top, or cut them and use adjustable pushrods when reassembling (this is my preference since you are not disturbing the top end this way).

The inner bearings are totally your call, but from what I have seen, the OEM selected INA bearings are a problem waiting to happen. See here (INA on right):

... to have the same tensioner setup on the inboard chain and all the other stuff that has to be purchased separately.

If you use the gear drive, you have NO chain on the inside of the plate. That is one of the "pros" of that option - no chains or tensioners.

On the roller chain conversion with hydraulic tensioners, the inner chain can be a silent chain or roller chain depending on the kit you choose. See here:

Roller Chain Conversion white paper

Harley Davidson Forums

I am just hoping that the tensioners currently installed will hold off long enough

If you are very disciplined about popping off the nose cone and checking the condition of the tensioners once a year, you can get by with this system.

TQ

 

[glazier]

The inner bearings are totally your call, but from what I have seen, the OEM selected INA bearings are a problem waiting to happen.
TQ

Does anyone know if HD is still using the same INA bearings??? I'm wondering if that's whats inside my bike.
Thanks.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Does anyone know if HD is still using the same INA bearings??? I'm wondering if that's whats inside my bike.
Thanks.

I would bet on it

 

[propflux01]

llhar: yes, cheapest, but I still don't want to have to worry over suden catastrophic failure. Plus, if I change them every few thousand I'd be replacing pushrods, etc, too.

TQuentin1: This is part of the things that make issues for extra parts and such. bearings, pullers, etc. Gets closer to that bank robbery every time I think of it.

This is whats leading me to make a choice (that shouldn't have had to make). 90% labour to install hydraulic chain setup at $500, VS 100% labour to change to gears ($1000 said and done).. Hate this!

 

[llharr]

llhar: yes, cheapest, but I still don't want to have to worry over suden catastrophic failure. Plus, if I change them every few thousand I'd be replacing pushrods, etc, too.
Propflux01, I did not say replace them every few thousand miles, I said to inspect them (for wear) every few thousand miles, for your own piece of mind. I checked my tensioners the first time at 19,000 miles saw how good they looked (yours look better than mine) then put another 10,000 on them before doing the conversion Personally I think you should be good to go for another 8k to 10k provided the inner shoe looks as good as the outer. This should give you a little time to make your mind up as to which way to go on the conversion.:s

 

[propflux01]

Thank you sir, that sounds like a plan I can live with.

 

[dolt]

The bike has 18K on it.

I do plan on some kind of upgrade, of which I will do myself, however my biggest dilemma is which way to go. I'd love the perfect world of cheap and reliable, but from the many postings on here, the tech pages, and lots of google, I get differing opinions on the best way to go for the cheapest cost. From even reading on this post if I want to just change tensioner a to buy time I have to remove pushrods and change inner bearings it seems.

As has been suggested; cheapest way out is to replace the tensioner shoes but do not replace them with the OEM part; you would be better off leaving the current shoes in place. Replace them with the CYCO shoe as previously suggested and forget about checking them every so many thousand miles. I have not seen any wear or failure issues reported on any of the H-D forums.

Unfortuantely, you do have to remove the cam plate to relace the inner tensioner shoe which, historically, shoes much more wear than the outer shoe. Additionally, you have now "polished" the link chain which will also extend the life of the replace shoes.

Replacing the inner cam bearings just make sense since you have the cam chest open and the parts are cheap; cheap insurance. All in all a cheap repair/uprade. About $150 in parts and gaskets (pull the pushrode from the top) and a Saturday in the shop bonding with you bike.:s

 

[propflux01]

Seems I have a few options now, thanks to everyone for the inputs.

So,

1. I can just leave what I've got and recheck in about 5-10K miles and go from there.

2. I can go the really cheap way and pull the pushrods from the top, replace inner bearings, and replace tensioners with the CYCO part. This method will buy me lots of time to consider a Gear Drive (and allow for Crank runout check)

3. I can go with the Chain conversion kit, replace bearings, pump, etc, -OR- I can go gear drives.

Since the first two options will either have time or buy me more time to save up, I'm leaning towards gears. Right now I'm looking towards the Andrews setup, but not sure which cam to use, the 21 or the 26. My riding style is 1-2 up 70-80MPH on interstate freeway, but mostly 2 lane roads with hills and curves and 50-60MPH.

I figure If I do the chain conversion I will stay with stock, if I do the gears, its the 21 or 26, as from my research one of these cams would best suit my driving habits. I like to "get on it" once in awhile but I'm not a speed demon either.

Choices?