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Cam Chain Tensioners, How Do They Look?

propflux01 said:
Seems I have a few options now, thanks to everyone for the inputs.

So,

1. I can just leave what I've got and recheck in about 5-10K miles and go from there.

2. I can go the really cheap way and pull the pushrods from the top, replace inner bearings, and replace tensioners with the CYCO part. This method will buy me lots of time to consider a Gear Drive (and allow for Crank runout check)

3. I can go with the Chain conversion kit, replace bearings, pump, etc, -OR- I can go gear drives.

Since the first two options will either have time or buy me more time to save up, I'm leaning towards gears. Right now I'm looking towards the Andrews setup, but not sure which cam to use, the 21 or the 26. My riding style is 1-2 up 70-80MPH on interstate freeway, but mostly 2 lane roads with hills and curves and 50-60MPH.
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The problem with Option #1 is that you are running the potential risk of a catastrophic failure; sudden and often with no warning. Granted, the possibility is remote but tensioners can look good one day and fail the next. I would not choose what is behind door #1 but your ride; you decide.

It would be hard, for me anyway, to go with Option #2 without upgrading the cams. You will have done all the work and a set of cams would not add that much more cost.

As for cam choice, the Andrews 21/26 have been the "go to" cams for otherwise stock 88" motors forever. However, there are new grinds that are available that will perform better. Your signature indicates that the bike you are working on could be a '03 or an '06 model. If an '03, you are limited to cams with .510"; if an '06, .600" is the max lift. So, if she is '03 bagger and you do a fair amount of two up riding; the 21 would probably be a better fit than the 26. If she is an '06; several other choices but the S&S 551 would really wake that 88"er up.

You will need a tuner with a cam install. You could probably get satisfactory results with the later Dobeck hardware but one of the more sophisticated systems like the TTS Mastertune and a dyno tune would be the way to go for max performance.

If you decide to go the SE Hybrid conversion route; orderin the kit from a discount online dealer will be cheaper than the Andrews kit which is made up of all OEM parts. JMHO.
 
dolt said:
The problem with Option #1 is that you are running the potential risk of a catastrophic failure; sudden and often with no warning. Granted, the possibility is remote but tensioners can look good one day and fail the next. I would not choose what is behind door #1 but your ride; you decide.

It would be hard, for me anyway, to go with Option #2 without upgrading the cams. You will have done all the work and a set of cams would not add that much more cost.

As for cam choice, the Andrews 21/26 have been the "go to" cams for otherwise stock 88" motors forever. However, there are new grinds that are available that will perform better. Your signature indicates that the bike you are working on could be a '03 or an '06 model. If an '03, you are limited to cams with .510"; if an '06, .600" is the max lift. So, if she is '03 bagger and you do a fair amount of two up riding; the 21 would probably be a better fit than the 26. If she is an '06; several other choices but the S&S 551 would really wake that 88"er up.

You will need a tuner with a cam install. You could probably get satisfactory results with the later Dobeck hardware but one of the more sophisticated systems like the TTS Mastertune and a dyno tune would be the way to go for max performance.

If you decide to go the SE Hybrid conversion route; orderin the kit from a discount online dealer will be cheaper than the Andrews kit which is made up of all OEM parts. JMHO.
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Yes, not really fond of that thought. I know #1 will buy time, but eventually it's gonna have to get done.

The bike in question is the '06 Model. I had been contemplating between the 21 and 26, but I will also start research on the S&S 551.

I emailed Dobeck and was recommended an EJK Gen 3.5 for the max upgrades I was considering.

If the "SE" kit your referring to is the Screamin Eagle, Seems every one I see seems to be missing a lot of stuff (you get a cam plate, tensioners and ?), and having to source the other parts like bearings, Cams, etc almost seems better to buy total kit, no (confused on this) ?
 
propflux01 said:
If the "SE" kit your referring to is the Screamin Eagle, Seems every one I see seems to be missing a lot of stuff (you get a cam plate, tensioners and ?), and having to source the other parts like bearings, Cams, etc almost seems better to buy total kit, no (confused on this) ?
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Go to Ronnies H-D parts finder, pull up the microfiche of your bike and get the OEM part numbers for all the hardware you need and order from Ronnies, Newcastle, Surdyke or the online discount dealer of your choice; you will save some money.

Ronnie's Harley-Davidson's OEM Parts Finder

All you need are inner cam bearings (the SE bearing are full compliment PN24018-10), rocker box cover gaskets, head breather gaskets (I would replace the '06 head breathers with the later stamped breather, PN 17025-03A, they are cheap), pushrod tube orings, lifter block gaskets, cam cover gasket, cam plate and scavenge port o-rings and cam spacer kit (PN25285-08). HD does sell a cam service kit (PN17045-99A) that includes all of the above san spacers but also includes a lot of other stuff you don't need and cost way more than buying the required parts to complete the install individually.
 
dolt said:
Go to Ronnies H-D parts finder, pull up the microfiche of your bike and get the OEM part numbers for all the hardware you need and order from Ronnies, Newcastle, Surdyke or the online discount dealer of your choice; you will save some money.

Ronnie's Harley-Davidson's OEM Parts Finder

All you need are inner cam bearings (the SE bearing are full compliment PN24018-10), rocker box cover gaskets, head breather gaskets (I would replace the '06 head breathers with the later stamped breather, PN 17025-03A, they are cheap), pushrod tube orings, lifter block gaskets, cam cover gasket, cam plate and scavenge port o-rings and cam spacer kit (PN25285-08). HD does sell a cam service kit (PN17045-99A) that includes all of the above san spacers but also includes a lot of other stuff you don't need and cost way more than buying the required parts to complete the install individually.
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And if you're changing the inner cam bearing, you'll also need the tools to remove them and put the new ones back in. The HD tools are about $300 for both, but I got a new set on Ebay for about $130. $300 was way too high for tools I only needed one time. The ones I got from Ebay worked great. I then sold them to a member of this forum. I cut out my pushrods with bolt cutters and bought the SE adjustable ones. Didn't feel like taking the top end off. It cost more money, but saved some labor time. Don't use a hacksaw to cut the pushrods out or the metal shavings will find their way into places you don't want them to be. And there is a proper sequence for tightening up your cam cover when you're ready for that. It should be in your owners manual. Follow that and use a torque wrench for all your bolts and you should be fine.
 
As for tools, before I bought the inner cam bearing R/R tools, I rented (free if returned) the blind hole puller from Auto Zone (just make sure it has the rights size collet) to pull the bearings and used one of the replaced cams to tap the bearings into the bore. Freeze the bearings over night; liberally apply assembly lube to the bearing and bore and tap them in, numbers facing out. The tools are handy and nice to have but the job can be done McGiver style.:s
 
dolt said:
As for tools, before I bought the inner cam bearing R/R tools, I rented (free if returned) the blind hole puller from Auto Zone (just make sure it has the rights size collet) to pull the bearings and used one of the replaced cams to tap the bearings into the bore. Freeze the bearings over night; liberally apply assembly lube to the bearing and bore and tap them in, numbers facing out. The tools are handy and nice to have but the job can be done McGiver style.:s
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McGiver style??? Hahaha..... thats funny. I was just talking to my girlfriend about how I had to McGiver my work truck yesterday when a bolt from the vacuum pump fell out, the belt flew off, and I had no brakes. Luckily the belt was still in the engine compartment and even though the fan was hitting it, the belt was still in great condition. A little McGivering fixed it right up until I could get it back to my place to fix it right.
I once rebuilt the motor from my '57 Chevy pickup with nothing but a swiss army knife :s
 
DFHarley19 said:
The price is not bad! Thanks! They are on sale... I don't know how long they will be last...
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Not sure if you are referring to the tools or the sale. If it you were referring to the tools. Unless you are using them for a living, these tools will be more than substantial for your needs IMO.
 
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