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Compensator

Thanks to you both!:D

The part that scares me is in the instructions posted by Bodeen. The rider's safety depends upon the correct installation
of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures.
If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do
not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer
perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit
could result in death or serious injury. (00333a)

I think my skills may not be up to taking the chance!:newsmile071:

This is totally legal talk. If you follow directions and ask for help when needed, you're fine.

I just called HD to get a price. They told me that they would recommend replacing the starter at the same time.

With parts and labor = $1028.12!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are they trying to give me the shaft?

Are you having problems with your starter? If not they're just trying to pad their bottom line for the job at hand. I upgraded to the SE compensator with no change to my starter and have had NO problems.
 
Are you saying the specs are wrong? Did this actually happen to you?
No, I'm saying the old bolts may twist off before you can get to the required torque. I was told this by one of the mechanics at the dealer near me. He may be right, because you can feel the bolt strectch or give or whatever you want to call it. He said that he has had the old bolts twist off on him before. Just passing on what was told to me.
 
Which bolts are you talking about here? Primary cover bolts? Inner primary bolts? Unless a bolt is used in a "torque to yield" application they should be fine to reuse and re-torque almost indefinitely.
 
This is totally legal talk. If you follow directions and ask for help when needed, you're fine.



Are you having problems with your starter? If not they're just trying to pad their bottom line for the job at hand. I upgraded to the SE compensator with no change to my starter and have had NO problems.

Other than the knocking noise that everyone talks about and/or the awful sound it makes upon starting when hot. But the service guy said that most of the labor was in the compensator. Any other thoughts why my price is so much higher than gusotto posted ($250 for parts and 2 hours labor which I am estimating around $60/hour).:newsmile057: I mean it sounds like they are really gouging me!
 
I'm not a mechanic by any means.

For what it's worth........get the part(s), grab the tools, log on, get dirty, knock it out. You can do it.....and you'll love it afterwards. Take the leap.

Down here, HD is at $85 per hr labor

Go for it and Good Luck.:newsmile04:
 
I'm not a mechanic by any means.

For what it's worth........get the part(s), grab the tools, log on, get dirty, knock it out. You can do it.....and you'll love it afterwards. Take the leap.

Down here, HD is at $85 per hr labor

Go for it and Good Luck.:newsmile04:

+1 on this! If your starter is not giving you problems then yes, they are just adding on. I bet the starter is $400-$500 of you price. It is easier to pull the starter while the inner is off but it can be done from the other side too with a little effort. Hardest part is loosening the comp. and clutch nuts.

Required tools. 1-1/2" socket, 1-3/16" socket, breaker bar for said sockets, torque wrench. These are the sizes for my '03 so ymmv. These tools other than common allen wrenches, sockets etc. should get you trough.

You will also need a new primary cover gasket (may get by with the old one), Mainshaft seal, starter seal, black permatex.
 
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If you are getting a grinding noise when hot, the weak compensator has beaten your starter drive to death. Within the drive is a sprag clutch and when they start to chatter, the noise is frightening. Perhaps at the Harley shop rate it is cheaper to replace the whole starter but a new starter drive runs around $120 if you can install it yourself. If your scooter is a recreational vehicle which can be used for transportation, then you have another way to get around. If it is your main transportation you may be time and money ahead to have it done by a shop, not necessarily a Harley dealer.

None of the new compensators will work with your old rotor/flywheel (with the alternator magnets in it). The old kit for the SE compensator came with a new rotor. I haven't seen the parts list for the most recent version to say whether the rotor is included or purchased separately. Regardless, you will need a new rotor with the new compensator. The latest version mounts with a T70 allen head bolt and has small holes surrounding the bolt head which allow oil to get into the hub area. It also comes with a plastic part or 2 which are glued (requires special glue) to the inside of the primary cover to guide oil toward the hub area of the compensator.

I won't get my hands on this hardware until my old style SE comp gives up so I have no installation hints for the most recent version. I would also guess that the youtube guidance does NOT yet cover the new version. Without previous experience you might wind up immobilizing your machine and then deciding you would like a pro to finish it. It is never convenient getting it to a shop in that condition, and that is embarrassing too.
 
Thanks for the confidence Dr. Doolittle. What do you think the chances are someone has their original compensator instructions?

Thanks for your input too gusotto.

I think you can go to the Harley site and read the the PDF file for that part.
 
If you are getting a grinding noise when hot, the weak compensator has beaten your starter drive to death. Within the drive is a sprag clutch and when they start to chatter, the noise is frightening. Perhaps at the Harley shop rate it is cheaper to replace the whole starter but a new starter drive runs around $120 if you can install it yourself. If your scooter is a recreational vehicle which can be used for transportation, then you have another way to get around. If it is your main transportation you may be time and money ahead to have it done by a shop, not necessarily a Harley dealer.

None of the new compensators will work with your old rotor/flywheel (with the alternator magnets in it). The old kit for the SE compensator came with a new rotor. I haven't seen the parts list for the most recent version to say whether the rotor is included or purchased separately. Regardless, you will need a new rotor with the new compensator. The latest version mounts with a T70 allen head bolt and has small holes surrounding the bolt head which allow oil to get into the hub area. It also comes with a plastic part or 2 which are glued (requires special glue) to the inside of the primary cover to guide oil toward the hub area of the compensator.

I won't get my hands on this hardware until my old style SE comp gives up so I have no installation hints for the most recent version. I would also guess that the youtube guidance does NOT yet cover the new version. Without previous experience you might wind up immobilizing your machine and then deciding you would like a pro to finish it. It is never convenient getting it to a shop in that condition, and that is embarrassing too.

Now your statements seem more reasonable to my inexperienced hands. I have to be realistic and only I know my talents and lack of. Great advice from you and all. Thanks!
 
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