Easy Clutch Adjustment Method
- Thread starter glider
- Start date
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
NO it IS NOT right.. IF STOCK bike...
You probably have the Clutch pack set WRONG... TOO TIGHT and more than Likely You used the WRONG way to set the 1/2 turn out..(going IN too far)
Glider method requires to Back OFF the clutch by 1/2 turn after the cable is adjusted,,, RE read and you will see
FINGER TIGHT after Loosening the lock nut..... IF you use a allen wrench AS SOON AS IT HITS (no pressure) turning in(right) STOP... You should be able to get THAT adjustment WITH OUT the allen wrench...
Many try to TIGHTEN FURTHER against the clutch pack with the Allen Wrench and this is NOT the way it is done...........
FINGER TIGHT against the clutch is NOT using the ALLEN to go FURTHER IN....
TRY it the right way and the cable should give FULL PULL when done..
signed....BUBBIE
MANY people have Problems using this method of adjustment...... ALL Respect to Mr. Data and this method.... This is why I say do it differently...
Just do the Loosen of the cable,,,,
Then loosen the NUT on the clutch pack... TURN center bolt In until it touches and NO further. THEN make your 1/2 Turn OUT from the LIGHT touching stop done against the clutch pack.
Tighten Nut... Now go back to tighten the clutch cable... Lengthen it out....Squeeze handle several times before final adjustment of cable.. Your clutch handle should give you a FULL squeeze NOT stopping out away from the handle...
Use the 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch as the FREE PLAY in the cable adjustment,,, taken at the cable to clutch handle housing..
signed....BUBBIE
HawkPilot
Member
Thanks, Bubbie. I've redone everything carefully with the same results. I suppose that my cable could be stretched since I have to turn the cable adjuster out a lot to get the proper 1/16 to 1/8 clearance in the ferrule. I've gone back to setting it by the service manual, which works ok. It did seem to shift better doing it Gliders way, though.
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
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Your cable adjuster should Not be out too far IF it has 3/16 of an inch of threads going into the adjuster nut... Less is not good...
I don't think the cable is the problem.... The setting at 1/2 turn out is needed to start with Then Tighten out the cable.... IF too loose and you get more than the 1/16 to 1/8 inch you May have a bad cable but I would go with the adjustment I said above to try to get it to work properly...
Just My Way
signed....BUBBIE
MissLadyChopper06
New Member
I have 23" ape hangers and had them since 93. No problem. Last year I took it in for service (a different dealership) for tune-up, fluid change, check-up, and I know he didn't adjust my clutch cable. It pulls in so hard, my Brother who is very strong can't even do it.
And I've been riding it this painful way. After a good day of riding (1oo miles or so) my left hand feels like it needs an operation! :0) Do you think my brother can adjust the cable with the nuts and bolts only without going into the primary? Please send me your response.
Thank you. Sincerely, Sue Norris It's a FXRS Low Rider 92 Last year they made it. It riders better than a new bike
And I've been riding it this painful way. After a good day of riding (1oo miles or so) my left hand feels like it needs an operation! :0) Do you think my brother can adjust the cable with the nuts and bolts only without going into the primary? Please send me your response.
Thank you. Sincerely, Sue Norris It's a FXRS Low Rider 92 Last year they made it. It riders better than a new bike
Sue
Sorry for the late reply but I must have missed this post somehow.
The "nuts and bolts only without going into the primary?" adjustment is just cable lash and the actual adjustment is in the primary itself. You can add an easy clutch to your bike and it reduces the clutch pull significantly.
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lone wolf in canada
Member
Mr. Data - I'm ready to try this adjustment method, but why must you turn the adjuster in until the lever starts to come away from the bar? I think that's where I'm having trouble understanding.
It appears others in this post also have thought this.
You would be turning the adjuster a lot to get the lever to start coming out this way.
I think I'll try it by bubbies way of just
loosen the adjuster on cable
break lock nut free on clutch assembly
turn the allen key in until it touches then out 1/2 turn
tighten the lock nut
adjust the cable free play.
This would make sense to me and as long as I try and figure your lever movement thing I can't understand it.
Maybe it's just me.
My 08 EG Classic has 44 K KMS now and I adjusted the cable adjustment only once at about 25 000 kms because the lever was loose.
I firmed it up and it found neutral easy again but the lever engaged a little further out from the bar.
I feel I need to adjust the allen screw this time for better clutch operation.
Thanks for your advice.
The Wolf
It appears others in this post also have thought this.
You would be turning the adjuster a lot to get the lever to start coming out this way.
I think I'll try it by bubbies way of just
loosen the adjuster on cable
break lock nut free on clutch assembly
turn the allen key in until it touches then out 1/2 turn
tighten the lock nut
adjust the cable free play.
This would make sense to me and as long as I try and figure your lever movement thing I can't understand it.
Maybe it's just me.
My 08 EG Classic has 44 K KMS now and I adjusted the cable adjustment only once at about 25 000 kms because the lever was loose.
I firmed it up and it found neutral easy again but the lever engaged a little further out from the bar.
I feel I need to adjust the allen screw this time for better clutch operation.
Thanks for your advice.
The Wolf
Doing it this way will remove the free play from the clutch.
The 1/2 turn out will change the engagement point over the 3/4 of a turn out. In other words it gives you a different friction zone that is further from the bar.
lone wolf in canada
Member
Yes I understand the freeplay and 1/2 turn off for the friction zone, but it's the "while holding slight pressure on the lever turn the hex bolt in until the lever begins to move out, then back in" that I can't understand, while the cable is lax.
I can understand the "easy method" where it says turn the hex bolt in to touch, then back off 1/2 turn, then adjust the free play at the lever. But I can't figure your method of holding the lever and turning....
That's all.
I can understand the "easy method" where it says turn the hex bolt in to touch, then back off 1/2 turn, then adjust the free play at the lever. But I can't figure your method of holding the lever and turning....
That's all.