free website stats program Engine won't run unless enricher is pulled out | Page 2 | Harley Davidson Forums

Engine won't run unless enricher is pulled out

BigT said:
I didn't mess with any of the adjustments when I rebuilt the carb. It will run if I throttle up then push in the enricher but it runs really rough and backfires.
Click to expand...

Still say the low speed circuit is blocked somehow or an intake leak but I think you checked for that.

Is thew cap still covering the idle mixture screw?
If so remove it and try adjusting the idle mixture when fully warmed up.Should be about 2 1/2 turns open from LIGHTLY seated and adjust from there as needed for the highest and steadiest idle speed, then close just a hair (1/16 turn)
 
When I rebuilt the carb I did not take out the plug covering the idle mixture screw, I am not sure if the plug is in there. I will have to check when I get down to the garage. I did take out those other jets and blew them out with air. I could see through all the holes. What are the chances that there is something wrong with the diaphram for the power piston. It seems to be working as specified.
 
Even if the diaphragm was torn or leaking, it should still idle but when you twist the throttle, it would pop and misfire and probably stall. Idling is handled by the low speed jet and the idle mixture screw.

CVThrottlepositions1.gif



It's necessary to clean out all the idle mixture and slow speed circuits to find this problem. Even remove the idle mixture screw being careful not to loose any of the o rings or washers in there and clean that port out with some spray carb cleaner so you see it spraying through the carb body and out into the throat of the carb. Do the same with the slow speed circuit too until you see the carb cleaner spraying into the intake body.


1. Slide Spring
2. Slide Diaphragm
3. Vacuum Slide
4. Vacuum Port
5. Needle Jet
6. Main Air Jet
7. Main Jet
8. Slow Jet
9. Idle Mixture Adjustment Screw
10. Throttle Plate

 
Last edited:
BigT said:
OK, I tried the ether test. I sprayed around the heads at the manifold and also where the carb attaches to the manifold, but I didn't notice any change in the RPM. Since I had the new seals I went ahead and installed them anyway hoping it would solve the problem but it didn't. As before, I can start the bike with the enricher out but as I push it in slowly the RPMs go down and and if I keep pushing it in the engine stops. It's like it's not getting any gas without the enricher. The carb bowl has gas in it. What ever is suppose to get the gas from the bowl to the engine is not working.
I need some more ideas. I appreciate any suggestions.
Click to expand...

OK, I know you said you took the carb apart and did replace some of the parts, but I am afraid you are gonna have to bite the bullet and rebuild the carb completely. You need to expose the idle-air mixture needle screw head.

See this post for some info:

Carb question - Harley Davidson Community

Once you have rebuilt the carb installing new jets, and opening up the idle-air mixture screw access so you can adjust it, the bike should run great! While all apart, make sure you wash out the little orifice(s) that carry the gas to the carb throat with carb cleaner spray. Gliders post describes this.

TQ
 
Last edited:
5 bucks says he tore the float, or bent the sensor arms on the float....


Sounds like the float is is bad, and NOT putting any fuel in (cuz it thinks the bowl is full)...

If it were me, I would take the carb off again, check the float (rule 1 is DON'T touch it / move it when adjusting cleaning the carb), clean the bowl, and SLOWLY put everything back together (Checking for binding, etc.).

I know, because I took MY carb off 4 times and made adjustments before getting it right!! 1st time was bumping both jets too hi, 2nd was replacing 1 jet, 3rd was repalcing OTHER jet, last was going back up on 1st jet. FINALLY got it right!
 
BigT said:
When I rebuilt the carb I did not take out the plug covering the idle mixture screw, .
Click to expand...

The idle orifice and the idle needle are plugged with carbon from popping back.

Try blasting Gum-out through the idle air intake orifice, other wise remove the idle screw plug and remove the needle, clean it and the orifice.
Note the turns, sequence the spring, small washer and o ring come out when removing the idle fuel adjuster needle so it goes back the same.



Al
 
OK, I got this problem solved. I was thinking that it was probably going to cost me almost as much to bring the bike to a shop and have them figure it out as it would to just go buy a new S&S carb. So I went searching to see what the deal was on S&S carbs. The best deal I could find was $440 plus shipping so I decided to take the thing off one more time and look at it again. I was looking at the slow speed jet and noticed that I couldn't see through the hole that runs through from the top of the jet. All the other holes on the sides of the shaft were clean. I could have sworn that I check this before and it was clean. I couldn't get carb cleaner or air to blow through so I got a thin copper wire and ran it through there and now I can see through it. I put it all back together and started it and it ran great. Everyone who said it was the slow speed jet were right. Now I need to find out why the starter just clicks when I try to start the bike. My trickle charger says the battery is charged but it just clicks. I am guessing that it is new battery time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top